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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 8036
Location: East Devon
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 Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Hinton Heating wrote: |
maybe for draft prevention.
As the downstairs should be as warm as upstairs, so heat transfer isnt a problem. where as the under the downstairs boards will be cold, and gaps are not good there! |
I guess you got it there, Hinton - maybe before the days on central heating - which would coincide with bare floorboards looking at the way they tend to be stained - in pre-war houses at least, heat could maybe rise up a little throught the ceiling and squeeze through the gaps in the floor better.
Thank god for radiators!
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I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the self-help section?"
She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose. |
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Welsh Decorator
Senior Member
Joined: 29 Sep 2007
Posts: 4063
Location: Cheshire
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| Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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Don't you mean the other way around 
Upstairs boarded and downstairs a solid floor.
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I'm not a roman mum, I'm a kike, a yid, a heebie, a hook-nose, I'm kosher mum, I'm a Red Sea pedestrian, and proud of it! |
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Welsh Decorator
Senior Member
Joined: 29 Sep 2007
Posts: 4063
Location: Cheshire
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| Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Why did this post twice, oh well.
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I'm not a roman mum, I'm a kike, a yid, a heebie, a hook-nose, I'm kosher mum, I'm a Red Sea pedestrian, and proud of it! |
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 8036
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:42 am Post subject: |
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| Welsh Decorator wrote: |
Don't you mean the other way around
Upstairs boarded and downstairs a solid floor. |
If you meant my posting, most of my DIY work has been with houses that have timber floors top and bottom (1930's type), rather then concrete.
Out of interest, when you have a suspended timber floorboards on the ground floor, what should the ground look like underneath? should it be a poured concrete or just left as compacted earth?
_________________
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the self-help section?"
She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose. |
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Wood Magnet
Senior Member
Joined: 07 Feb 2006
Posts: 3550
Location: sunderland
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| Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Edz, the only other thing i can suggest is
string or thin rope soaked in pva and then
pushed into the gaps.  You can dye the string
beforehand to match the boards.
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People forget how fast you did a job - but they remember how well you did it.
I no longer skinny dip, i chunky dunk these day's. |
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Welsh Decorator
Senior Member
Joined: 29 Sep 2007
Posts: 4063
Location: Cheshire
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| Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Hoovie, all the timber floors that I have seen or worked on have either been dirt or concreted under the joisting, the main thing is, MAKE sure that the air vents are clear of any muck ect.
If these get bloked, then the chances are that the timber will be a great risk of various rot attac, dry rot being the worsed to try to stop 
_________________
I'm not a roman mum, I'm a kike, a yid, a heebie, a hook-nose, I'm kosher mum, I'm a Red Sea pedestrian, and proud of it! |
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