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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 7:45 pm 
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Hi
I changed door opening direction, used to open to the outside now to the inside. However, for some reason the gap between door and frame now is big such that door lock just sits on the latch and a small push door opens. Any ideas how to solve this?
I was thinking to put a thin strip of timber along the frame?!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:15 pm 
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You could pack behind the hinges to throw the door over a couple of mm, (this will make the gap larger on the hinge side).

Also check that the latch is not binding in the case or on the striking plate and is fully out when the door is closed.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:28 pm 
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ayjay wrote:
You could pack behind the hinges to throw the door over a couple of mm, (this will make the gap larger on the hinge side).

Assume you mean pack the hinge by the frame not the door? I chiselled the frame to fit the hinges flush to the frame, I shouldn't have, Shall I use general purpose powder filler to fill the void which will give 2mm?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:19 pm 
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It's easier to do it on the frame.

If I know that there will be a large gap around the door I feather the hinges in - i.e. the edge of the hinge leaf furthest from the knuckle is sunk in deeper, this will throw the door over as it has the effect of opening the hinge slightly.

In your situation you can just pack behind the hinge with whatever comes to hand, thick(ish) card or old glasspaper is my favourite, cut a strip about 18mm wide the exact length of the hinge and fold it either twice or thrice (scoring with a Stanley knife will create a neat sharp edged fold), support the door with a wedge and slacken off the screws about 5mm, pull the door away from the frame and slide the packer in behind and screw the hinge back.

Do both/all the hinges and assess the situation, you may want more or less packing. There shouldn't be any need for any filler.

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For this message the author ayjay has received gratitude : yartin
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:45 am 
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yartin wrote:
Shall I use general purpose powder filler to fill the void which will give 2mm?
No[*]. If you must, use two part filler but given its price for filling in two hinges cut outs follow what ayjay says.

--
[*] not many fillers will grip on wood, and a 2mm thickness of fill it will probably crumble when the hinges go on top of it.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:28 am 
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OchAye wrote:
yartin wrote:
Shall I use general purpose powder filler to fill the void which will give 2mm?
No[*]. If you must, use two part filler but given its price for filling in two hinges cut outs follow what ayjay says.

--
[*] not many fillers will grip on wood, and a 2mm thickness of fill it will probably crumble when the hinges go on top of it.


Yes makes sense it will crumble, I have plenty of saw dust to make wood filler but will opt to the packing method.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 10:34 pm 
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You could pop the architrave off and wedge the frame over.

Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 11:55 pm 
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Three other things I'd look at:

- You could also pack out the strike plate so it's not flush to the frame, and depending on the type of strike plate, you may be able to bend it slightly to make more of a lip for the latch to bite.

- Your latch may also have worn a little short with use too. In my experience commercial grade tend to protrude a little more than the less expensive ones so might give you another mm of grip.

- Measure the frame carefully top, middle and bottom. The frame may have twisted. In which case, as someone suggested, pop off the architrave and see if you can shim it out a little.

I once replaced an internal door and it wouldn't close properly. I was livid with myself that I had left the door on end too long and it had warped. Once I'd calmed down and measured in detail, the door was perfect, but the frame had twisted. Took me a day of pulling, pushing, wedging and subtle trimming to get the door closing near perfectly.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 9:45 am 
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When you say you changed the way the door opens did you rechop the hinges in the other side or did you just physically turn the door around? If the latter then the increased gap is likely to be a result of any leading edge now being the wrong way round . Personally I'd go with the advice to pop off the architraves and push the frame over.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 8:10 pm 
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Update:

I finished the job. I put packing by the hinges and filled gaps with caulk decoration filler smoothed by wet sponge.

I have an issue with the door carpet trim. The floor is concreter and bathroom side is thick vinyl glued To concrete while other side is carpet. I can't use nail/screw as pipes for cold, hot water and central heating are going under the door. What are my options for a trim??

Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 1:54 am 
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Threshold strip glued down with an adhesive like No More Nails?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 9:41 am 
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AlwaysLearning wrote:
Threshold strip glued down with an adhesive like No More Nails?


I did that before, put heavy items on top for few day but still came out. May be I should use industrial glue. But which trim is designed to be glued?


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