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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Hello,

We have just moved into a house, it is an older house and we are finding a real problem in the heating in the 2 back rooms (kitchen & dining room) and the downstairs leading to the back door. It is a seriously notable difference in temperature even with the heating on full blast all day it is still freezing to the point I have to wear a jacket to cook dinner. The rest of the house is fine.

I am trying my best to find where the heat is escaping to but it could be a number of areas, the back door itself, the many windows (all double glazed). What is the best way to determine this? I contemplated calling someone out but as I am new to the area I do not know anyone reputable and to put it bluntly don't want to cost myself a fortune without any results.

Notes. The backdoor itself is freezing to touch and I have noticed some condensation one of the dining room windows (which also have full glass porch doors onto a small kind of balcony area).


Any advice would be so very greatly appreciated :hello2: .

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 4:38 pm 
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helllooo and welcome cmalco200 :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:
more information needed really
if its a victorian terrace like mine there is little outside wall between15-20% except the kitchen which is 50%
do you have a radiator in the kitchen
does the kitchen have a room or a roof above
is there a conservatory or other room connect to the kitchen ??

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:50 pm 
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In my experience it was not the heat escaping more a case of cold air entering. I had the same issue in my kitchen (a late 1970’s high spec (!) build with suspended floors) and discovered the source of the problem when I stripped the kitchen out for a refit. The joiner and plasterer must have had a fall out as there were over 2 dozen places on the wall/floor join where the air was blowing through gaps from below the floor. And the holes in the floor for water pipes must have been made with a lump hammer. At a rough guess the gaps were equivalent to over 2 bricks missing. An hour with ply off cuts, expanding foam and mastic made a big difference.
Next, both downstairs and upstairs, I eased back all carpets and caulked the joints. Where we have wooden floors, I again sealed them this time with coloured mastic.
The bedrooms were always cold at the windows. I discovered some seals were failing using the old paper trick ie, open the window, stick a narrow strip of printer paper in, close the window and then try pulling it in. Try this every 4” (4cm) and then use thin sticky backed foam draught excluder where possible but not where it causes difficulty in closing the window or you will cause damage to the hinges/catches. I again ran a bead of mastic around the edge of the frames and underneath the window boards. Although the improvement was not massive it all helped.
Have just check the outside them – 2C, kitchen temp after c/h being off for 3 hours – 21C. Job was well worth the bother.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 4:40 pm 
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Hi big-all

Thanks for the welcome! :cheers: In answer to your questions:
The kitchen has no room above it, it does have its own radiator, this is the only radiator in the 'cold rooms'. terrace is just a flat roof on top of the garage that the last residence fenced off basically.
The layout is you go from the 'warm parts of the house' through to the kitchen, joined to that is the dining room (no door, but there is a wall) then down stairs to either the garage or backdoor.

My personal opinion is it might be the backdoor due to it being the coldest area, but the condensation on the porch/balcony area windows bothered me.

MitchieLad
Thanks I will try the paper trick which is a new one to me :huray: . My problem is the large (floor ceiling) window that had the condensation does not open, do you know if there's a way to check that one aswell?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:49 pm 
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sounds like a lack off insulation in the roof and possibly walls so stopping draughts may improve by 10-15% but not much more :dunno:
also look for gaps around pipes under the sink and behind the washing machine
also do you have an extractor or any vents

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:20 pm 
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Any chance you could post the floor plan or images? Trying to visualise! As mentioned likely to need a multi faceted approach, improved insulation, more/ bigger radiator, draught proofing etc.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 11:05 am 
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Hi,

It cant be the roof as the loft is converted and no cold draught up there.

I would post pictures but I am on my laptop just now o2 is having internet issues so cant using my phone to upload. ::b

Only vents are those you get above the windows which as all closed over.

After further examination last night though I am sure its the door, due to high winds I pressed my ear up against the door seal (hinges side) and could hear the wind coming through. As well as feel a draught. What is the best thing to do. I imagine eventually I will need to replace the whole door but for now can I get some kind of draught excluder for round the whole door?

Thanks Again,
Claire


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 11:35 am 
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Before spending money on d/e, seal the door/door frame joint with masking tape using a separate strip for each run, ie one each for the verticle runs and again for the top and bottom. If that helps then remove a strip at a time and see if you can notice any change in 'comfort'. If you could do this over a weekend you might find the problem.

Re the window you could think of using something like this plastic film stuff
https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-2120W-6-Ind ... B000AXXCUC

if you can get a sheet large enough. Sorry but I have no experience of hoe easy to fit or how effective it it.



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 11:48 am 
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Hi MitchieLad, Thats a great tip thanks I will definitely try that over the weekend and report back.

See how I can on with that before I approach the windows, I am going with my gut and the little common sense I have :lol: that its the door (the main problem atleast).


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 8:24 am 
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Just reread my posts and realised I forgot to say try to get replacement seals for opening windows and the door before using draught excluder strips.



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