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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:34 pm 
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Evening

As a result of some work to create a downstairs shower room and utility room I have some 'spare' space in the new hallway outside the new rooms. I have an alcove about 820 mm wide by 890 mm deep and 2400 mm high.

I think it would make an ideal area for a floor to ceiling cupboard for coats, shoes etc

Two doors about 400mm wide leaves scope for a cupboard about 450mm deep. I can get a sheet of White mfc that would make three shelves.

I got a quick price for plain white doors (using approx sizes only) with handles and drilled for 4 hinges for about £70 each from Jali. So my question is how best to install these?

Is it as simple as attaching two vertical timbers with a sole and head plate and mount the hinges on these (I'm assuming kitchen door type of hinges are the way to go?), running some skirting board along the front to match the walls each side. Or am I missing something?

The walls have just been skimmed (and the one on the right is a new stud wall) so everything is relatively square and plumb - not mm perfect but decent all the same.

Any pointers/thoughts/advice appreciated.

TIA
Low Modulus


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:42 pm 
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low modulus wrote:
Two doors about 400mm wide leaves scope for a cupboard about 450mm deep. I can get a sheet of White mfc that would make three shelves.

It would be better if you could get what is called "pre-banded" MFC - that is MFC sheet which has been ripped to width and then edge banded by the supplier. Support the shelves on 3 sides on 2 x 1 in softwood cleats or battens screwed to the walls unless you need a moveable shelf set-up

low modulus wrote:
I got a quick price for plain white doors (using approx sizes only) with handles and drilled for 4 hinges for about £70 each from Jali. So my question is how best to install these?

Are these doors meant to be in-frame or planted-on (like kitchen unit doors)?

low modulus wrote:
Is it as simple as attaching two vertical timbers with a sole and head plate and mount the hinges on these (I'm assuming kitchen door type of hinges are the way to go?), running some skirting board along the front to match the walls each side. Or am I missing something?

Yes, you are missing something - done that way it will be almost impossible to get the two wall battens to line-up. A far more satisfactory approach is to make-up a 2 x 2in PSE softwood frame with 4 sides and fix that to the wall, packing-off as necessary. If set-back a bit this could be overclad with edge-banded MFC or painted MDF (thinner, say 6mm to 12mm) which is scribed to the masonry.

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For this message the author Job and Knock has received gratitude : low modulus
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:17 pm 
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J&K

Great thanks for that. I'll look into the pre banded mfc for the shelves. They don't need to be moveable so will use 2x1 supports.

The doors are like kitchen doors so sit on the frame. I'll look at making up a frame as you suggest to keep it all in line. I was planning to paint the walls white and the timber frame also white then any small gaps can be caulked before painting and negating the need for any scribing.

Thanks for the pointers.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:12 pm 
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One last point; you may want to check how much bowing you'll get when you load your shelves with stuff, especially if they are wide. There's an on-line app called "The Sagulator" (follow the link) which is really good for doing that. The material you are looking for is "melamine" (the American name for MFC or melamine faced chipboard) and you have no edging strip with edge banded stock. If the deflection is too great it may be necessary to lip the front of the shelves or add a softwood brace beneath the fronts of them

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:31 pm 
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Spot on. Cheers for the info.
:salute:


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