Hi All,

I've stripped an old brick wall in a bathroom back to bare brick. It's an external wall, and will have a corner shower against it. It has a radiator, below a window, to the left of where the corner shower will be.

I'm going to use Aquapanel to tile against for the shower area. The remaining wall will be plasterboarded & skimmed.

As it's an external wall, it's going to get c-c-c-cold in the winter, and suck all the heat out of the radiator - which is the only one in the room.

So I'm thinking... Timber stud work, set plumb and level on wall by setting each stud into plasterboard adhesive (I'm guessing it will be easier to get the studs level this way, instead of setting them straight against wonky brickwork). Then when set, use through screws every 30cm or so, to fix studs to brickwork. Then, add celotex PIR insulation board (25mm) between studs. Then fix Aquapanel and plasterboard to studs.

Does this sound like a reasonable way to proceed?!

Cheers! Rich

That is so windows 95 lol

Have a look at http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/ ... nents.aspx

This is a far better way of proceeding. Easy to use, easy to get right, a lot quicker than timber.

Remember to follow recommendations for voids behind aqua panel.

Metal dry lining all the way. Faster, straight and doesn't rot ever.

I would use Aquaboard instead of Aquapanel. Easier to handle.

You need to buy aviation snips for it though which cost £ 3.25 at toolstation Fix using Drywall or TEK screws.

I bet the £3 tin snips must be utter 5hiters. Just had to buy a pair because my 14" Gilbo's were not with me (grrrrrrr). £10 out of Jewsons as I wasn't paying £32 for the better ones due to having the best at home. I must say the £10 were cack for cutting H section studs and not much quicker on C section stud.

The cheap ones are not much different to the stanley or Irwin ones I have used in the past. I only use them once a month or so but they have lasted me a year without going blunt or bending. The guy I am currently working with is a dry liner by trade and he seems to get on fine with them. I would like some better ones if they are effortless but have never seen any. What would you recommend?

I think the £30 plus aviation snips are good and you can also buy them in left handed version too. Lad I used to work with used that type and I used them a few times to compare them with my Gilbo's. He is the only bloke I have worked with that didn't use Gilbows, but he was left handed.

I have the 14" curved Gilbows and also a smaller pair of straight ones. Rarely use the straight ones. Someone borrowed my original ones, unbeknown to me, and put them back in my tool box sheared! God knows how they managed to damage them so badly. The ones I bought to replace the shagged ones have now been with me for 21 or 22 years.

All the lads on the office refurbs used the gilbows. I suppose when you are doing that work day in day out they make a huge difference in time saving. 4 cuts and a stud is done as opposed to 7 or 8 with aviation snips.

Thanks guys!

Regarding the voids behind the aquapanel... Can't find anything about this. Looking at their installation guides, they seem to have insulation butted right up against its backside? Is it absolutely necessary to have a void behind the panel, or is it just an ideal?

Also, where's the best place to buy the metal framing? I've seen C studs in wickes by Knauf, which look exactly the same? Can't find any brackets/clips or the GL8 tracks for the head and foot there though. Jewsons is it?

Minsters insulation or sheffins for the metal.

It is the void between the back of the board and the brick/block work which the technical stuff relates to. You will need to check that as different makes will vary, as far as I know.

As Jozeffo suggests for the gear. You could also try CPD, CCF, Neville Long and other local partition supply companys.

Had problems finding anywhere that would sell the c-studs and channels in less than packs of 10 and brackets in less than packs of 100. It's only a small wall requiring about 15-20 brackets, 5 c-studs and 2 u-channels. Anyway, think I've found a place online that'll do it.

Question: Where the wall meets another wall to create an internal angle, how should I fix the c-stud that sits right in the corner? In the British Gypsum docs it has a pic and diagram of the bracket leg (that's sandwiched between the side of the c-stud and the wall) being bent right around the front face of the c-stud and then screwed onto that surface. Surely that's going to create a protrusion so the plasterboard/aquapanel etc will no longer sit snug right up against the stud? Or will there be enough flex for it not to really matter?

BTW I'm only boarding one wall. The two walls either side, that meet the wall I'm working on, are fine and will be left as-is.

Stud and track can be bought in single quantities from Jewson or Buildbase.

You do not need brackets with C-stud. The brackets are for the gypliner system.

You butt the C-stud against the wall and fix through it to create an internal corner. Use plugs and screws to fix it.

The thickness of the bracket means that the board may bow up to 2mm to get over the bent part of the bracket, but that wouldn't really notice over an eight foot high wall.

Most places (Minsters, Sheffins, Travis Perkins) will sell the lengths in singles, not just packs. The brackets are usually only by the box of 100, so sometimes a length of angle and some tek screws are used instead, although this takes a little longer.

When you refer to C studs, are you using the gypliner or actually using stud wall components with insulation between them? Not clear from your post if you have changed the spec a bit.

When I use to do miles of office partioning such as the gyproc sytems and komfort we all used Wiss

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Professional Kitchen & Bathroom Fitters | Master Painters and Decorators | Brighton & Hove

Tried Jewson this-morning. They said they could supply singles of the stuff they had in stock, but apparently the stuff I was asking for would have to be ordered in. But yeah, it was the Gypliner stuff I enquired about. I thought that's what we were talking about? That's the link you posted? :) Anyway, I've been looking at building-supplies-online.co.uk

I was just going by the docs for Gypliner. So, I was thinking: u-track top and bottom, c-studs in between and brackets to hold the studs in place. How does it work without the brackets? Do you just screw through the stud and fix it to the wall that way? Remember I said in my original post that the wall is a bit dodge, so I don't think I could get things straight enough that way. I think I need the brackets to provide some stand-off from the wall a little to iron things out.



Yep, I was going to use the gypliner system, and then insulate between the studs (unless advised otherwise ;))

With you now. Got confused because you keep saying about C-stud. These are not used for the gypliner system.

You use a lining channel (what you keep calling C-studs lol).

Two ways of doing this.

1) Track top and bottom and then lining channel every 600mm centres. This will leave the wall with a bit of give to it meaning you will be able to push on it and it will flex inwards. Double boarding with staggered joints will improve the amount of flex.

2) As above but you include the brackets for the lining channels and this will produce a sturdier end product with the flex taken out of it.

When using brackets you brought up a good point about how to fix where lining channels are at a wall abutment to produce an internal corner. Wrapping the bracket onto the front face and screwing will as you say cause the board to sit off. Not so bad if you have crimpers. So you can deal with this scenario in a couple of ways too.

1) From the bracket so that it comes into the back of the lining channel and do not fix it then place the next channel 300mm away and affix as normal. Other end of the wall use bracket for penultimate channel and affix 300mm before the last channel.

2) As above but the first and last lining channels are loose, so just stood into place.

3)First and last lining channels can be direct fixed through the side into the wall they are abutting.

Don't forget that you haven't got to use this system, the option is also there to use normal stud and track (C-stud or I-stud). The advantage with Gypliner is that you don't loose so much from your room dimensions.