Hi all, I am after some advice on fitting new double glazed windows. I am currently refurbishing and extending a bungalow part time. One of the next jobs is replacing the windows. I have had quotes for supply and fit and also supply only. I am considering to fit them myself to keep costs down. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks.

Ben

Hi Ben,

this might help a little-

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum ... t1427.html

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DIY | Donnas dream house

It's basically straight forward if your used to doing DIY stuff around the house.

It's much easier if the cavity is closed off, the window sits across the cavity so if its open your fixing options are limited.

There two main fixing methods,
1, screw straight through the frame into the wall (easy if cavity closed)

2. lug fixing - a metal strip is screwed to the frame and protrudes into the room. The plaster is notched away to allow the lug to butt up against the block or brick then screw through the lug into the block, then plaster back over the lug and screw. All the fixing is then hidden - used where cavity is open.

3. Foam fixing - expanding foam all around the window frame - a bit of a cowboy job, 1 & 2 are much better.

You a 5mm - 10mm gap around the top and sides between wall and window. Normally the brickwork will vary so the gap will as well, You need at least 5mm to get a mastic bead big enough to take up expansion and contraction with temperature.

A white PVC window will reach about 40°C in the sun, a brown PVC window can reach up to 70°C so expansion is more of a problem.

I could go on as there are lots of options, are you going for Glaze-in or Glaze-out windows?

Thanks for that, The windows are internally beaded if thats what you meen by glass in or out. The cavity is closed off. What type of fixings are best to use. Many Thanks

Ok the outer frame normally consists of three chambers.

The centre chamber contains the reinforcing (aluminium or steel) so you fix though this, however as you are going though the reinforcing channel you will need to seal around the fixings. Otherwise this will corrode with time.
The two outer chambers are for drainage depending on which way the frame is used.

Fischer fixings are normally recommended by the systems companies. These are a type of plastic rawlplug but they act more like a dowel. They usually need a about a 10mm hole and are knocked in to their final poition. Tighening the screw locates them in that position; it doesn't pull the frame against the wall.

However normal rawlplugs are used a lot of the time, over tightening the screw will cause the frame to 'dip' in at that point though.

You will need to fit packers between the frame at each fixing point. As seen in link below.
http://www.glazpart.com/glazingframe.html

You normally fix within about 200mm of a corner then at about 500mm centres.

You will need to remove the glass on fixed lights to gain access to the frame. The beads can be popped out by using a steel scraper (a nice wide blade 3" helps prevent damage. Start in the centre of the bead and gently ease it out. Once the centre is out an inch or so it will easily pull out. Fitting is opposite sequence. Ends first then work towards the centre.

Where abouts do you live Ben, if your near me i'd willingly give you a hand.

_________________
People forget how fast you did a job - but they remember how well you did it.

I no longer skinny dip, i chunky dunk these day's.

Hi Ben

I had my windows done a few months ago and the installer used this http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30468/Fix ... 02mm-100Pk

Make sure you have plenty of packing blocks and sealant...

They did the whole house in just 1 day...good luck

Thank you all for your great advice. You have made my decision for me and i will be ordering the windows on supply only. I will let you know how it goes. I live near Uxbridge mate so a long way from you. Very kind of you though, all the best

Ben

Good luck with the project mate. we DO like pictures though.

_________________
People forget how fast you did a job - but they remember how well you did it.

I no longer skinny dip, i chunky dunk these day's.

I recently had to repair a leak in a friend's pvc window frame.
The cill was wider than the frame, thus there was no brick, just mortar around side/base where a 1/2 brick should meet the window cill.

I cut cill to same width as frame and fitted a 1/2 brick along side of it. The job looks much neater and is now sealed properly.

Q
Why do builders fit these type of cills, where it would be awkward to shape a 1/4 brick to fit.

I have jpeg diagram but don't know how to upload.

Cheers

John[/img]

I recently had to repair a leak in a friend's pvc window frame.
The cill was wider than the frame, thus there was no brick, just mortar around side/base where a 1/2 brick should meet the window cill.

I cut cill to same width as frame and fitted a 1/2 brick along side of it. The job looks much neater and is now sealed properly.

Q
Why do builders fit these type of cills, where it would be awkward to shape a 1/4 brick to fit.

Cheers

John[/img]