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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:13 am 
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I will be fitting a upvc door,what are the best fixings and size for the frame to give a good solid fixing .


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:44 am 
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assuming its into brick work i use spax concrete screws (frame fixings i call them) they have a t30 head.

the screws that you dont have to use a rawl plug. just dril a 6.5mm hole and the screw goes straight in.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:12 am 
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i use m8 x 120 frame fixings

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 2:41 pm 
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Do use the same bit to go through the upvc and brick like a multi purpose bit,the fixings are they the ones that you just hammer in and you dont have to tighten . I was looking at a youtube video about toe and heeling and they dont seem to use a packers on the bottom of the door on the closing side is this correct cheers.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:26 pm 
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yeah same bit to go thru both materials

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17480/Fix ... 0-Framefix
thats what i use, hammer fixings look the same but instead of screw threads it more like a ringshank nail, they work but not as good,

for toe and heel the idea behind it is like a brace on a garden gate, if you wedge the btm hinge side and top closing side the glass acts as the brace so no need to pack the otherside as it wont do anything

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:01 pm 
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Thanks speed,are they a pozi 3 head or 4,what drill bits do you use, do you use plastic packers for the frame,what clearence gap around the frame is recommended, do you just silcone the gap or do you also use foam.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:28 pm 
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they are pz3
i use a 8mm x 200mm sds bit
yes plastic packers with the frame, i usually get them supplied with the window( sometimes they forget and i have to ask).
for the size i was always taught 10mm smaller than the opening (5mm each side) to allow for expansion.
if i can get foam in i will use it as its good stuff, then silicone last job

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:57 pm 
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Thanks speed ,the sds bit will not go through the frame if its reinforced or will it, also do you bed the cill on mortar,do you also fix the head and cill.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:38 pm 
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Same fixings as Speed................pre drill the reinforcing, don't whack SDS straight through it.

Whether or not the cill is bedded on mortar depends how much damage is done getting the old window out. If it is not too bad then I don't bed onto mortar. ( Should say I didn't used to, as I haven't fitted any in years).

Fix through cill and head depending on width of window and also if you can get a fix through the head. Patio doors it can be a right pain if you do not fix through the cill.

I leave the same tolerance as Speed also, frame 10mm less than the opening. I think although someone will correct me if wrong, that they leave 20mm tolerance on those nasty fake wooden plastic windows as they expand more than white ones.

Ha ha....I bet you come back with the fact you are having a fake wood door pmsl.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:40 pm 
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lads i know use foam to fix the windows then once its set put 4 concrete fixings into each window, they don't budge i promise you. although make sure any glass is in first, it prevents the foam moving the frame

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:43 pm 
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if its reenforced you will have to go thru with hss bit,
dont fix head and only fix cill if wider than a single door

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:46 pm 
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Thanks speed,royal and sb, interesting about the fake wooden upvc, is it because the dark colour attracts the heat :dunno: ,sb what concrete fixings do you use .I am hoping to buy one from ebay either white or wood effect lol.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:50 pm 
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Yes the darker ones expand more. Although I had a client years ago that used to have to hose her french doors down in summer when she wanted to shut them lol.

Not sure what expanding foam is..........never used it apart from fire work lol.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:07 pm 
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i stopped using plastic sleeved fixings ages ago. the concrete screws are 100% the way to go. try them.

i screw the cill to the frame before fitting it. from beneath upover rather than through from the glazed side.

10mm tollerance.

i dont fix the head as usually the windows i fit are into a new extension so cant drill through the steel lintel.

i have used expanding foam before. it does the job well.

for the concrete screws a 6.5mm sds bit is needed. and it just punches through the reinforcing. ive had the same bit for ages now. a dewalt 6.5mm sds bit.

sometimes the concrete screws dont take to concrete blocks. then is the only time i use plastic sleeved fixings

hth



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:20 pm 
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fin wrote:
i stopped using plastic sleeved fixings ages ago. the concrete screws are 100% the way to go. try them.


Agreed - they are great - I use these with a 6mm drill bit

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/45701/Fix ... ack-of-100

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