Hi,

I was hoping someone could help me out with this, Im sure its pretty simple but i just want someone to confirm for me.

We are having our bathroom re-done and im doing the electrics but i have never used one of these before, its a MFIL 100T that connects onto the new light fitting above the shower, simple. However we would like the fan to be on a separate switch so if anyone wants to be in the bathroom without having to hear the fan on they can. I just cant get my head around the wiring to do so...

The plan is to have a 3 gang switch outside the bathroom, 1 for the downlights, 1 for LED's dotted around the bathroom and 1 for the fan. The connections in the fan are L, N and T, ive never come accross a T before but assuming it would be the switch live?

Im sure this is a common thing to do so im sorry for sounding like an idiot!

Thanks in advance

Darren

UHM has done a neat article on this! http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy/e ... itting.htm

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- Dave
http://www.pamperhouse.net
http://www.invertedcircle.co.uk

T would be for a permanent live (T = Timed) L will be your switched live...oh and if it's a new install you must have the timed over-run according to whichever reg it is...but we won't tell if you don't

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

thanks for the quick reply guys!

As with most things these days i seem to find the manual never actually gives you any inclination to what the letters are on the terminals, but then again i should know

Basically it gets wired up as normal but just dont connect the light up to it

okay so ive done this, however the over run timer doesnt seem to be working, i turn the fan on with the switch fine, and then i can turn it back off, but then thats it.

Not too sure what to do next. Can anyone offer any advice.


The feed is taken from the switch and then T/E to fan isolator, then onto the fan fitting in the loft, I spoke to a friend of mine who is an electrician and he told me instead of using 3core just attach a small piece of cable from L to SL in the fan (in this case L and T) and this should make the over run work, its not

Thanks!

then your friend is not an electrician because that would never work in a month of Sundays.

you take it all from the ceiling rose not the switch. (as long as it is a loop-in system)

T&E from ceiling rose to a joint box in the loft (you are doing a different set up you will need to do this)
from the joint box a T&E to the switch
from the joint box take a 3-core & earth to a triple-pole isolator
from the isolator take a 3-core & earth to the fan

come back when you have done this and i'll tell you what to connect.

thats the problem, there is no ceiling roses, the only lights in the bathroom are downlighters, all the other rooms upstairs dont have roses either, they are all spot lights or downlights.

Basically the set up is power coming to a junction box up in the loft, then power to light switch, each individual switch is then connected by a loop from one to the next etc...so then from there it powers the LED's, fan and downlights (all separate switches)

So T/E from JB in loft to switch, T/E from switch up to fan isolator, T/E from isolator to fan, thats as it is currently. I think from what your saying all I need to do is remove the T/E from switch to JB and from isolator to fan, replace with 3core from JB to isolator and from isolator to fan?

i think so. ceiling or wall lights, makes no different, as long as you can access the loop which you obviously have.