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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:33 pm 
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Mr. Grumpy

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I have had this tool for over a year now and used it quite a bit. (see link). Overall, still a reasonable piece of kit for the price. Ideal for a DIYer but questionable for a pro. End of the day you get what you pay for with this one and as its 1/2 of the price of a DeWalt / BOSCH it stacks up pretty well.

Laser is pretty knackered on now, its crackling a lot as I forgot to switch it off a few times and left it on over night. A nice feature would be a soft start as if you are trying for a very accurate cut, the initial jerk has a tendency to knock the wood out a touch and get the cut line goes slightly wrong. This is more of a problem when trying bevel cuts for plinths where the cut has to be accurate and the panel has a very smooth finish. The screw down clamp works fine but is tiresome to use. There is only one and is very tedious to put it on the other side for left hand cuts as the little thumb screw is very fiddly to get in and out

The tool is not that accurate, no matter how many times I mess about it never seems to be spot on and has a tendency to come out of line after a few months of DIY use. It’s not way off like some of the cheaper makes but just means that you have to be careful when cutting rather than rely on the markings on the base plate

The spring mechanism is very smooth and nice pressure though and depot cutting is fairly easy without the need for the depth stop. When cutting gloss panels I like to give the first pass of the saw a skin of a cut just to get the line clean.

The 300mm sliding range is great and very happy with it. Only problem is that the arms are quite short it width so actually cutting something 300 wide means the wood panel board is quite unsteady on the base plate

Dust bag is pretty useless, collects about 50% of the wood chips and material frayed so can’t unzip it without a bit of work

Blade is surprising good actually for a cheapish tool! I use it a lot, hit a few nails and put down an engineered floor. Still giving good cuts. It’s a feature that is overlooked I think with cheap tools. The Erbaurer blade is a 48T one (I think) so you can get by on a lot of jobs without the need for buying another blade.

In some ways I regret buying this saw as although it’s worth the money I am becoming a real fan of Pro tools and get great satisfaction of the build quality associated with them. However I see a 8” Bosch GCM8S is £250 or the green version (PCM 8S) is £200 on Amazon which makes the Erbaurer about right price (£140). In hindsight I think I would have stumped up the £200 for the Bosch given it has good reputation and you can get parts readily.

Still 4/5

Note I just checked Screwfix, I see they have a new range of Erbaurer which makes this post somewhat irrelevant! :tool: However the 8” is £90 or so!, it does look a lot more gimmicky than what I have though


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:13 pm 
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Pro Carpenter
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jumps ?? in what way
you work should be clamped to the back fence mechanically or by hand so shouldn't move when you turn it on :dunno:

most saws will need adjustment every time you go for accurate work or monthly which ever comes last :lol:

when you make a cut do you get perfectly smooth cuts on both faces as in no steps or deviations??

have you checked the base plate and back fence are dead flat??

a very good and honest review well done :thumbleft: :thumbleft:
more like this please people

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:34 pm 
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Mr. Grumpy

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Hi Big-All
Its hard to review properly as I have limited experience of power tools. Its just the initial inertia of the blade once you press the trigger, so if you are going for a fine cut on a veneered chip board it can slide on the smooth surface of the base plate (slightly) when holding it by hand. Using the clamp eliminates the problem of course but I find it is time consuming.

I guess I am cutting corners here and would be good to test a pro mitre-saw to compare. A miter saw is about the only tool I actually find a laser useful for, so shame its a bit knackered

Perhaps I am expecting too much with the comments about the adjustments. I do notice that the 45deg bevel cut is not truly 45, more like 45.5 - 46 so perhaps not too bad

I am always wary of cheap tools, as spending weekends and spare time doing a DIY means you have to enjoy it and nothing nicer than an appreciation of a well built tool


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:06 pm 
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would expect there's a screw/nut/allen key adjustment for the lean angle
are both faces smooth without steps/ripples??

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