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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:34 pm 
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my only concern now is where the start the first run!
In the hall/entrance? Or on the long run in the dining room/living room (working towards the hall). I quite help thinking one of the sections (hall or both receptions as per the pic above) will be skewed?!
I'm running them lengthways up the rooms btw.


You can start where you like. You'll be 'back fitting' at certain points either way regardless. It'll be easier to align the floor over a longer run. My preference would be to start at the top right of pic 2.

Personally, I'd want the floor looking straight in the main living area. You're much more likely to notice a wonky floor over a bigger area. I'd also want balance going through the arch. Meaning the boards equally spaced at each arch base.

I'll stress again. Make sure the floor is aligned correctly with the first rows. The planks may look straight but may not be. We use a lazer line for this. If the boards are fitted skewed - even slightly - over the first rows, it'll have a cumulative knock on effect and be an utter nightmare.

If you get the first rows perfect, it should be pretty much plane sailing, so it'll be well worth it to keep on doubting yourself initially until you're absolutely sure before you start to pull the film back.

1000 gauge sheet can be a PITA as well. It has a mind of its own, especially at the folds. The elastilon will weigh nothing and will also be moving around on you all the time as it slides on the sheet, until you've got some flooring in anyway :-) Nothing much you can do about that.

Leap frog your wedges. No need to have wedges on every single row..

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 12:21 am 
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Wes wrote:
Quote:
my only concern now is where the start the first run!
In the hall/entrance? Or on the long run in the dining room/living room (working towards the hall). I quite help thinking one of the sections (hall or both receptions as per the pic above) will be skewed?!
I'm running them lengthways up the rooms btw.


You can start where you like. You'll be 'back fitting' at certain points either way regardless. It'll be easier to align the floor over a longer run. My preference would be to start at the top right of pic 2.

Personally, I'd want the floor looking straight in the main living area. You're much more likely to notice a wonky floor over a bigger area. I'd also want balance going through the arch. Meaning the boards equally spaced at each arch base.

I'll stress again. Make sure the floor is aligned correctly with the first rows. The planks may look straight but may not be. We use a lazer line for this. If the boards are fitted skewed - even slightly - over the first rows, it'll have a cumulative knock on effect and be an utter nightmare.

If you get the first rows perfect, it should be pretty much plane sailing, so it'll be well worth it to keep on doubting yourself initially until you're absolutely sure before you start to pull the film back.

1000 gauge sheet can be a PITA as well. It has a mind of its own, especially at the folds. The elastilon will weigh nothing and will also be moving around on you all the time as it slides on the sheet, until you've got some flooring in anyway :-) Nothing much you can do about that.

Leap frog your wedges. No need to have wedges on every single row..


Brilliant - thanks Wes. I'll do it that way. The hall has a built in cloak cupboard now (since the pic) so even less 'real estate' to notice.
I'll be laser guide shopping tomorrow now :) Good tip on the expansion wedges too.

Lookng forward to it now (just a case of fitting in the lay around family and family visits) so not sure when I can start yet.
These engineered 2200mm/220mm boards are a whole different ball game to the shorter, thinner laminates...they're in the room now boxed up like long surfboards!

Alignment/first row...if I run the laser down the underlay (and spacing ahead with the doorway/arch in mind) so this line runs straight from one end, through the arch and into the next room (taking into account the alcoves either side of the fireplace - different depths) I should be OK. I'll take my time on this.

Jig whizzes through laminates - suitable for 7 ply engineered (bearing in my mind any slight cutting undulations will be hidden by skirting)?

I did mess up on my fitted cabinets...built up on battened base but the doors are going to hit the floor when opened!
That's another matter though (fixable) :)

Cheers Wes. :thumbleft:


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:02 pm 
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Just a quickie (going to hopefully commence this weekend):

There's a rounded stair to contend with...not so much a headache to scribe round but what to do with the gap at a later date (the stairs will eventually be re carpeted). I remember laying laminates in our previous place and placing cork beading in, not entirely convincingly.

Many thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 7:07 pm 
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You can simply scribe round leaving your expansion allowance/gap. Be accurate with it. Then when the carpets are to be fitted, ask the shop or fitter to pack the bottom riser off with underlay.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 8:29 pm 
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Thanks Wes - will do that.
Just laying the DPM now and using a bit of those eco pearls (just in patches, before adding a little more once the DPM is down). Tried a board on top of it and it feels utterly solid (non moving), but early days so can't fully comment.
Spoke to the firm again last week (same bloke, ex floor fitter) and gave me a few tips... I'm fairly confident it should be successful.
No other option though..I know its Halloween, but the only other option (asphalt removal, new concrete DPM et al) is simply frightening!
I also guess we'll have to live with a bit of bounce given its a floating floor and not the perfect sub floor, but we had one in the old place (laminate over wooded boards) and quite liked the 'cushioning' effect (has that comforting carpeting feel) :)

Cheers Wes!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 3:21 pm 
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I spoke to Lyndon a couple of days ago (he remembered speaking to you). Very helpful chap. I bought a 50 litre bag to try out myself.

To a silent reader - I'll be in touch Patrick :-) I just want to see if these eco pearls will be of benefit to your particular job :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 4:02 pm 
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Excellent.
Let me know what you think Wes.
I think if I were to be carrying out a full level (but with the same asphalt issues) I'd probably lay boards on top (maybe even the recommended jumpax) as walking on underlay directly on top can create 'dips'.
I've got around this by using hardboard to walk/kneel on to lay the wood. The wood on top of the eco pearls then underlay is solid to walk on though.

Anyway...laying em now....and its taking far longer than I'd hoped :(

Cheers!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 10:49 pm 
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Laid much of this at the weekend. Expected to lay it in one day on Saturday, then commence the oiling on Sunday...this did not happen!!
As such, I'm finishing off bits in the evening (end runs and the hall)...but it's been much harder than I thought. With laminates I usually get into a stride and get fairly efficient at it, but given the costs of these engineered oak it wasn't pleasant making the first cuts :lol:
The sections I'd levelled out seem to held up well (firm and level so far - one section to finish), but there were other sections of the floor (unnoticed - missed by a builder who dropped the original cempolay) that were a bit out. Not at all ideal, but unless I went that new concrete DPM route (£££ + impossible logistics) there's wasn't much else I could do.
If I ever did it again (if we moved) that's the first thing I would do, unless the sub floor was wooden planks).

Anyway, surprisingly (for a floating floor) it feels pretty straight with little bounce (just one minor bounce*). I haven't as yet put the furniture back in the room, so that might make the floor feel different again (settle it a little more perhaps).

* Would you ever consider drilling a small hole and 'piping' expanding filler into an area that bounces? I'll be honest, I'll probably quite happily live with this it's pretty minor (barely noticeable).

Couple of things occurred/noticed (bit of a pain, but it's done!!):

1: Tapping a few boards in place left a couple of planks with minor gaps, despite being in elastilon (so hopefully they won't move any further). This may be down to the none perfect sub floor and something, again, I'll have to live with. The boards are micro bevelled, and often the lighter oak boards look 'perfectly' flush, whilst the darker ones have the noticeable bevel (which I like) - so some of these 'gaps' are simply that. A couple of boards have a definite gap, but 1-2 mm at worst. Advisable to place anything in here - sawdust mixed with resin (I'd already tried this as a practice and it works quite well), or just hard wax oil them all at the weekend which should fill any minor gaps?
The run through the two rooms caused a bit of wrangle (hard to explain this one) but the run through the 'door' meant that when starting a new run (the first run on the new room) with elastilon (the boards would be stuck down - then I had to try and lock them into the board entering), it was really tricky to fit the new run and link these to the board that was entering the room through the doorway (lengthways). This may have caused one of the gaps.
Not quite sure what the best method was there - perhaps treated them as two rooms and gone for the expansion gap (a gap wasn't advised with these boards and installation method).

2: School boy error in that on the final run through that wide doorway linking both rooms, I cut the end off a piece that required the tongue staying in place (as it would in the middle of a run). I had to cut out a square section on the board to fit round the frame, but it would't slot into place (too tight - would've have had to remove the door frame). The piece was cut, stuck down on elastilon...before I realised what I had done. Remarkably, I managed to somehow form a groove whilst the board was in site (drill, cut, file...) then glued and tapped in (light sand on the cut bit) and it's almost perfect.

3: Elastilon is a bit tricky to use initially (I ended up leaving a inch of the backing stuff under the boards - any less and it was hard to lift the boards slightly to click into place.

4: I'm up to the door that separates the main room to the hall. I was going to have this running through without an expansion gap, however, if I follow the last run in the living room, the hall run is going to be slightly 'off kilter' (used a laser level and the run is about 1 inch of out over a couple of metres...probably noticeable to the eye.
Advisable to treat as a new run completely and drop a door bar over the gap?

Sorry about the long post...it's been sending me nuts..and still isn't complete.
Starting to look very special (even with a couple of minor niggles). I guess the hard wax oil will really make it sing!

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 12:38 pm 
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A few pics I promised to update the thread with: also shows the other work I did in the rooms (electrics, lighting, woodwork etc) completely guided by you good folks on these boards...so massive thanks :)


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For this message the author somapop has received thanks - 3: getthewheelsinline, Job and Knock, Wes
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:52 pm 
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That looks excellent :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:09 am 
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Hi,

Many thanks for the info in this thread, which I read with interest as the problem (uneven concrete floor on which to lay thickish engineered wood) is a lot like what I'm facing. I am specifically thinking to use these eco pearls to level the floor. Somapop - a year on, I wondered if you've any update on how this has worked out for your floor? E.g. have you noticed any subsidence / compression of the subfloor? Or any other problems these have given rise to?

Eco Pearls looks slightly miraculous so I'm wondering how they work out in real life...many thanks for any info,
g.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 2:27 pm 
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Hi,
I'm Patrick (as referred to above in Wes' post). :wink:

Wes did my ground floor using Eco Pearls approximately 20 months ago. I think they're a fantastic solution in all honesty. No subsidence or compression issues, they stay exactly as they're laid.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 3:10 pm 
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Thanks Patrick! That's good to know & reassuring. I've ordered 5 bags of Eco pearls and waiting for them to arrive.
Still wondering what the best way to lay is - I'm considering doing ~10mils of eco pearls, then plywood sub-floor, then underlay then engineered wood. But our flooring is tongue & groove and pretty strong so maybe I should just skip plywood and do ~20mils of eco pearls, underlay and engineered wood directly. (Or maybe it doesn't matter). If those on the thread have advice on this - would be appreciated!

Best,
Gavin.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:39 pm 
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Hi Gavin, no problem.
Hopefully Wes sees your post and can offer advice as to whether that'd be the optimum way of laying it, but he didn't use ply on mine.

From memory, it went from the asphalt floor to:
Moisture Barrier plastic sheeting > Eco Pearls > Vitrex Underlay > Quickstep Impressive 8mm Laminate

Hope that helps, Patrick


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:08 am 
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gavinband wrote:
Hi,

Many thanks for the info in this thread, which I read with interest as the problem (uneven concrete floor on which to lay thickish engineered wood) is a lot like what I'm facing. I am specifically thinking to use these eco pearls to level the floor. Somapop - a year on, I wondered if you've any update on how this has worked out for your floor? E.g. have you noticed any subsidence / compression of the subfloor? Or any other problems these have given rise to?

Eco Pearls looks slightly miraculous so I'm wondering how they work out in real life...many thanks for any info,
g.


Apologies Gavin - I didn't get a thread response notification.
As a quick update, the pearls have been absolutely fine. There was one section of the floor which was 'really out' and this is a portion of the floor I laid the pearls in a large amount. No movement a year on to the point where I'd simply forgotten about them. The bitumen floor gave so many issues that given time and money I may have had to remove the whole lot and relay (big job as mentioned on here) but these eco pearls have more than made up for the initial headaches.
One section I'd forgotten about was the hall and, as such, laid the flooring without levelling...there's a bit of a dip which I'll have to live with (but if we extend the house, this section would be ripped up anyway).

Did you use them in the end? Be interested to find out.
Wes still post on here?

Cheers.


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