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mysterio84
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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 Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:33 am Post subject: |
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| so thats almost 4 cm per wall thats not an awful lot to be honest, i thought it would be more than that per wall. |
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Slugster
Senior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 965
Location: Cotswolds
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:48 am Post subject: |
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It's not, but what happens where the wall meets the door frame?
Unless I'm missing something here.
If the Artex is flush against the door frame surround and you add an 1" of thickness to the wall, how are you going to make it meet the door edge?
How will you match up electrical socket boxes etc, they will be an 1" deeper than they are now. |
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mysterio84
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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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| The artex is not flush against the door frame at the moment but i can see what your saying with regards to it being flush when the plasterboards are fitted, as for the electrics, this not a problem as its all going to be ripped out and moved about at at some stage of the renovation. |
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Slugster
Senior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 965
Location: Cotswolds
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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OK as long as you are aware of the issue.
I got caught out because std door lining kits seem to be about 5 1/2" deep.
Because I have dry lined both sides of the walls with thicker board, I now have to make my own 6" thick door linings.
Good luck with the job - and remember, we all like to see photos  |
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ultimatehandyman
Site Admin
Joined: 16 Jul 2005
Posts: 9740
Location: Darwen, Lancashire
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Slugster wrote: |
It's not, but what happens where the wall meets the door frame?
Unless I'm missing something here.
If the Artex is flush against the door frame surround and you add an 1" of thickness to the wall, how are you going to make it meet the door edge?
How will you match up electrical socket boxes etc, they will be an 1" deeper than they are now. |
You would have to either fit new door linings or add a piece of timber between the door casing and architrave (there is a name for this, but I have just woken up and can't think of it )
For the switches and sockets you just use long socket screws, you can get them up to about 3 inch in length.
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ultimatehandyman
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Joined: 16 Jul 2005
Posts: 9740
Location: Darwen, Lancashire
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Trying to doy and dab onto artex that has been applied over wall paper is a vey bad idea, as pointed out earlier! It would only be a matter of time before it failed.
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mysterio84
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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| dot and dabbing is not an option for us over the artex, we want the job to be done properly, so that if we are still in possesion of the flats a few months down the line we wont have to go back in a rectify the problems of dot and dabbing over artex!! |
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ultimatehandyman
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Joined: 16 Jul 2005
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Location: Darwen, Lancashire
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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Battens it is then!
When you fix each batten to the wall you will have to pack it out in places so that they do not bend when you tighten the screws. When you get to the door frames you will have to remove the architrave and then either fit a new deeper casing or add an additional piece of timber to it, in order to bring it out to the new level.
A three foot long level will make getting the battens level, much easier.
If you are careful you should be able to replace the old beading.
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tim'll fix it
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Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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hold on hold on
you say you want to do the job properly
well to do the job properly strip the artex and paper off and then skim the walls
what you are suggesting doing batoning, plasterboarding, skiming, altering the doorcasings, new skirts and archs is a lot of work.
Have you tried steaming off the artexed paper. I have done this in loads of houses normally the artex is the paint on type, not very thick and with a steamer comes off easily
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mysterio84
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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| yes we have done one room and it did come off eventually, its not the thickest artex i have ever seen, in fact its probably the thinnest. |
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mysterio84
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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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| tim'll fix it wrote: |
hold on hold on
you say you want to do the job properly
well to do the job properly strip the artex and paper off and then skim the walls
what you are suggesting doing batoning, plasterboarding, skiming, altering the doorcasings, new skirts and archs is a lot of work.
Have you tried steaming off the artexed paper. I have done this in loads of houses normally the artex is the paint on type, not very thick and with a steamer comes off easily |
we are having new skirts anyway because the ones that are currently in the house are in a bit of a mess and i can understand that it is a lot of work. Also on some of the walls there was immitation stones and when these were being removed it brought a lot of the wall away with it exposing the bare brick underneath, surely all this would have to be filled in before dot and dabbing? |
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Slugster
Senior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 965
Location: Cotswolds
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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I'm sorry, but if the act of removing the paper / artex brought down the plaster / fake stones isn't that ringing any alarm bells about poor surfaces 
Using batons will work because you will be screwing the batons through all the lose crud into good brick (well I hope you will )
But this is a LOT of work to get level. Remember every baton not only has to be vertical and not twisted or wavy, but then every baton across the same wall has to be perfectly true to each other. Otherwise you will get a wavy wall.
And permit me a little rant, but this isn't the way to do it properly - you are covering up a mess. And then some poor shmuck comes along after you and has to undo it all.
They way to do it right is to either go back to good plaster and re-skim or if bits of that are falling off - go back to bare brick and then bond the board on - Rant over... |
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mysterio84
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Slugster wrote: |
I'm sorry, but if the act of removing the paper / artex brought down the plaster / fake stones isn't that ringing any alarm bells about poor surfaces
Using batons will work because you will be screwing the batons through all the lose crud into good brick (well I hope you will )
But this is a LOT of work to get level. Remember every baton not only has to be vertical and not twisted or wavy, but then every baton across the same wall has to be perfectly true to each other. Otherwise you will get a wavy wall.
And permit me a little rant, but this isn't the way to do it properly - you are covering up a mess. And then some poor shmuck comes along after you and has to undo it all.
They way to do it right is to either go back to good plaster and re-skim or if bits of that are falling off - go back to bare brick and then bond the board on - Rant over... |
thanks for the reply, the main reason i came on here was to ask the question about the battoning because i knew that the state of the walls was not very good and that made me think that it could possibly make it difficult to dot and dab on, maybe i should have mentioned that earlier!! 
But as for covering up a mess, surely the only mess that we would be hiding would be the walls that the immitation stone came from? the immitation brick covers one wall in the living room, one wall in the upstairs bedroom, two chimney breasts and one wall which is the wall that goes up the stairs. so throughout the whole house the only walls that are messy are the ones which had the immitation stones on them. As for battoning onto the walls that have the artex on them, surely this really wont make much difference as we wouldnt be hiding a complete mess.
i apologise if i come across as stupid i really do not have a clue about all this dry lining business!!
:grin: |
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Slugster
Senior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 965
Location: Cotswolds
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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Please don't get me wrong - I'm not having a go and I'm not an expert.
It's just 2 yrs ago I was exactly where you are now, thinking about covering up the existing walls.
Now I'm so glad I went back to bare brick and started again.
And when I said mess, I was referring to the possible loose surfaces.
IMHO, if you want to fix what you've got, the batons approach will definately work.
But for a solid finish I would go back to brick, PVA the walls to seal then and then blob on the boards. It's not that hard.
Also remember if you use batons the wall you see will be a long way from the structural wall (the brick) if you then want to hang anything on the wall you will need to make sure you can screw into a baton to make it load bearing - one to remember before you hang the new plasma screen up LOL!!! |
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mysterio84
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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i understand that your not having a go mate!!its nice to get some feedback and peoples thoughts.
what we are doing is turning a large house into two flats and dont get me wrong what we want is a stunning modern looking flat, and if i was going to live in the house then, yes, i prob would go back to the bare brick but because its a renovation then i guess using the battoning will prob be ok (correct me if you think i am wrong!!)
i know exactly what you meant by the walls are a mess, your right, thats exactly what they are.
i just think that by going back to the bare brick it would have to be done by professionals as the job would need to be a good 'un.
im confused a little now!! |
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