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 Post subject: Downlight Wiring Help
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2018 4:56 pm 
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Hi all,

I'm hoping someone can offer some advice.

I have a faulty LED driver in my bathroom lighting. I removed the first downlight in the series to check the wiring was secure and found that I have a rogue Neutral and Earth wine from one of the electrical cables. The Line seem to be all terminated together.

I'm assuming the 3 Neutral, the 3 Line and the 3 Earth should all be terminated together? And then the Line & Neutral connecting to the LED driver input?

Pictures attached!

Many thanks in advance for any help!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 10:49 am 
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I would assume all lines connected together (red wires) all earths connected together (green or green/yellow) and two of the three black wires (neutral) connected together, and one should have a red sleeve on it and connects to the power supply.

However we should not assume, we should test, so I would with power off be testing with a meter set to buzz which wires if any go to the switch.

Personally I would not use power supplies unless forced by the lights not being outside the zones, I find power supplies a problem, there are so many types.
1) toroidal transformer AC output at 50 Hz.
2) electronic transformer really a switched mode power supply, often a minimum as well as maximum output, AC but often in the kHz range, however unlike the toroidal transformer the output is regulated so better for quartz lamps, but normally unsuitable for LED.
3) Voltage regulated DC power supply, often incorrectly labelled driver, and often not smoothed enough to work with DC LED replacements for MR16 lamps.
4) Current regulated DC power supply correctly called a driver, often voltage varies 4 to 40 volt these are for LED's which don't have drivers built in, and invariably output wired in series not parallel like the others.

Now the replacement LED lamps for MR16 fittings come in many voltages and types, most common are 12 volt 50 Hz which need the toroidal transformer, second is 10 - 30 volt DC designed to run from a battery, a DC power supply can be used, but it needs to be smoothed so the unit you have does not actually state if smoothed or not so uncertain if it would work.

It is possible the 12 volt 50 Hz LED lamp will work on your power supply, however since we don't know what is inside the LED bulb, we can only guess. There are two typical ways of controlling the current with cheap LED bulbs, one is a resistor this will not care if AC or DC, the other is a capacitor this will only work with AC with the correct frequency. There is a third method using a pulse width modulated controller but these lamps are more expensive and are with 12 volt versions normally DC needing a smooth supply.

Because it is so easy to fit the wrong 12 volt lamp, if possible better to change from G5.3 to GU10 and fit 230 volt lamps, only exception is if in the zones in a bathroom needing extra low voltage.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2018 5:14 pm 
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What you have there is typical of "loop in/loop out" wiring at some point the connections at the ceiling rose have been replaced by those electrical connector blocks. Just replace the faulty driver like for like.

Verwood Handyman

Verwood Handyman


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2018 8:52 pm 
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wine~o wrote:

What you have there is typical of "loop in/loop out" wiring at some point the connections at the ceiling rose have been replaced by those electrical connector blocks. Just replace the faulty driver like for like.

And then just shove the single insulated cables with a bit of strip connector back into the ceiling?

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