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tommo
Junior Member
Joined: 15 Oct 2008
Posts: 9
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 Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject: Dot n dab plasterboard |
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| Hi, Could anyone tell what's the minimum distance between wall and plasterboard when dot'n'dabbing? Also, can I use that method on unpainted plaster? Thanks a lot, Tom |
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Orrill
Junior Member
Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 14
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| Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think there is a minimum distance (not that I know of anyway)
It should be fine to dab onto plaster as long as it solid and not coming away from the wall. |
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jozeffo
Senior Member
Joined: 02 Dec 2008
Posts: 386
Location: South London
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| Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:08 pm Post subject: Minimum Thickness Dot and Dab |
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I wouldn't go less than 1cm. If you pva the wall, you will reduce the risk of the compound failing.
Alternatively, you can board using special foam in a can which is quicker and cheaper. The specification for this suggests that it is 6mm thick so you could have a total of 15.5mm if you use thin board or 18.5mm if you use thicker ones which are easier to use and give a straighter finish with less effort. |
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Raf
Senior Member
Joined: 07 Mar 2008
Posts: 492
Location: Lancs
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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| whats this can stuff? |
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leebwk
Senior Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2006
Posts: 1369
Location: Oxford
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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I would only PVA the wall if it is dusty ie removal of old plaster prior to dot and dab otherwise you will be ok Dri-wall adhesive sticks like you know what to a blanket
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 16569
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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Anytime I've watched the experts doit, they have whacked great big blobs of the stuff all over the wall, must be 50-60mm thick, then they place the sheet in place, and whack it flat with a box section straight edge.
I followed the same style when i did the club and it worked out fine, I found the big blobs allowed me to get the sheets vertical and flat.
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Scruff |
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tommo
Junior Member
Joined: 15 Oct 2008
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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| leebwk wrote: |
| I would only PVA the wall if it is dusty ie removal of old plaster prior to dot and dab otherwise you will be ok Dri-wall adhesive sticks like you know what to a blanket |
But it wouldn't stick to paint, would it? I am currently in (painful) process of removing it from walls. For some reason paint in my lounge is quite well stuck. |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 16569
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, so I'm a plumber, but have stuck it on paint before.
Why do you say you can't.
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tommo
Junior Member
Joined: 15 Oct 2008
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:18 pm Post subject: |
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| thescruff wrote: |
Ok, so I'm a plumber, but have stuck it on paint before.
Why do you say you can't. |
I meant I am removing paint before going over with plasterboard. Because paint is not coming off easily I thought I could leave it. |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 16569
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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As I said, I have dot and dab painted walls with no problem.
The experts will comment no doubt.
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Pristineplastering
Senior Member
Joined: 29 Aug 2008
Posts: 223
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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Dont waste any more time chief !!!!
Dri Wall adhesive sticks to almost anything there is no need whatsoever to scrape the paint off - If you are still worried, give the wall surface a key with a devil float but for gawd's sake dont scrape the paint off - It must be soul destroying
Mix up a bag of adhesive (dont use the cans ,they're messy and dont hold alot) in a gorilla tub and throw a bucket trowel's worth at regular intervals (every 8-10inches or so) - only dab enough for one board at a time and take your time on your first board as all others will run off it
Once the wall's dabbed, offer up your sheet of board, push home hard all over by hand, and then knock it home HARD with a length of 3x2 CLS timber - dont be afraid to hit it hard - you wont damage the board
And dont scrimp on the adhesive - dont be tight , a bag will last for about 2 , maybe 3 boards , no more
Good luck ! |
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tommo
Junior Member
Joined: 15 Oct 2008
Posts: 9
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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| Pristineplastering wrote: |
| It must be soul destroying |
It is, you're right ;) I appreciate your reply!
I am also trying to achieve is to push plasterboard as close to the wall as possible. There is already a radiator and I don't want to come to close to that. Do you think putting more but smaller dabs will help?
Thanks! |
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rubber_hammer
Senior Member
Joined: 18 Nov 2007
Posts: 141
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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Don't mix the adhesive too stiff and you will be able to knock the board in quite close to the existing wall as the adhesive will spread out behind the board - it won't spread properly if it's too stiff.
The radiator brackets can usually be fitted two ways, one will position the radiator further away from the wall than the other way. If it's on the further away position at the monent you can just turn the bracket over and you'll stand a good chance of it fitting just fine with the existing pipework positions.
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fin
Senior Member
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 465
Location: south tyneside
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| Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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| hmm ive always put my dots onto the back of the board then stuck it to the wall. ohh well different methods i guess |
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Raf
Senior Member
Joined: 07 Mar 2008
Posts: 492
Location: Lancs
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| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:39 am Post subject: |
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fin when i did some dot & dabbing i did it on the boards; you can place nicer more consistent blobs and its much easier. i did try the wall but you have to kind of fling it; then if its a wet mix get some splash in your effin eye 
someone mentioned drywall adhesive in a can.... any links & is it any good? okay it may be messy but i can be quite messy mixing adhesive! |
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