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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:26 am 
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I had an lvt laid onto a floor.

The fitter didn't do a damp test, and screeded the floor, then did a damp test when they came to fit it and the damp tester was beeping, so they said need to dpm it and then you have to screed it.

When asking their boss, that, didn't they know it needed a dpm before, shouldn't they have done a damp test at the start. He said yes they should have but didn't want to mention it in front of the floor fitters, but if they did that at start it wouldn't have made a difference as you have to screed a floor, dpm it, then rescreed over the dpm..

Is this correct, or can you dpm, screed then lay it... In affect saving screeding twice?

Reason why I ask, the floor guys are charging me an extra £1000 without telling me it was going to cost that much extra at the point of carrying out the work..

I think they made a mistake by not checking and I am paying for it...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:42 pm 
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Not a floor fitter, but as a carpenter I've seen enough vinyl done on shop fits and I have myself laid quite a bit of oak flooring, so.....

Before laying any timber of vinyl floor onto cement screed or concrete sub-flooring it is pretty much imperative that you do a moisture content test of the sub-floor using an appropriate contactless flooring meter such as a Tramex - that will test the moisture content in the core of the sub floor, not just at the surface. Any floor layer should know this. Pretty much every vinyl floor I've seen laid (both roll and plank types) has been laid the same way - fill any major holes/gaps/cracks first (not always necessary) then DPM layer (often a bluey-green liquid DPM), followed (quite often next day) by a levelling screed, and then the vinyl applied onto a coating of adhesive. The only time you need to screed more than once is when the floor is extremely uneven and you would exceed the maximum layer thickness allowed for the levelling screed, but given that there are products out there which will allow you to lay down 15 to 25mm in a single pass that doesn't happen very often (unless drying time for thick coatings is an issue). Screed - DPM - Screed? Sounds like they know they've screwed it up and are trying to cover themselves at your expense. I think that you need to ask why the floor needed a second coating as they certainly don't seem to have followed the route I've seen flooring fitters follow over dozens of jobs in the last 10 years alone.

BTW, my avatar to the left is an oak floor laid onto a dampish cement screed landing (just under 4% in places) where it was necessary to seal-in the moisture by applying two coats of clear epoxy DPM over 2 days before we planked-out. Fortunately the sub-floor was fairly even, but in other areas it was necessary to level the floor using screed into hollows and in that case it was still the same - deal with cracks, DPM THEN screed.

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