Recently became aware of Magnaclean type devices, and think my CH system could benefit. I recently had a blockage very close to the header tank after I drained the system and had to unblock the sludge with a piece of cable to refill.

The system is about 23 years old, and has had periods of water without inhibitor (including the last 6 months or so, though the system has been totally off for most of that time). I've bought some inhibitor, but am reluctant to drain the system in this weather in case there is a problem. Also I'm planning to fit a few more TRVs, and will have to drain the system anyway next month - so seems a waste of inhibitor. Am I stupid to do wait a month?

In terms of Magnaclean, I think I can fit this myself if we're just talking compression fittings and cutting a piece of 22mm pipe (will a hacksaw do or pipe cutting tool needed?). Anything involving blow torches etc is beyond me :)

Should I be going for something that filters non metalic stuff too? Isn't all sludge metalic?

The location I have in mind is in a mid level roofing space which has easy(ish) access to both flow and return pipes to the boiler. The pipes have lagging around them - would some rockwool type insulation (I'll shortly be reinsulating the loft spaces) over the magnaclean device be enough protection from the cold or are special requirements needed?

I'm also not sure which pipe is the return to the boiler. Pics attached - any idea?




Are the pipes to close together for fitting this device? No clips appear to be holding these pipes (though they do go into the wall and the run isn't long) - how heavy is this thing - do I need to secure it somehow?

In terms of rad life, how do you tell your rads need replacing? Is it just a case of looking at the bottom rear of them for rust type spots?

Sorry about all the questions - thanks for any advice.

Instructions with Magnaclean give you the exact distance to cut out of the copper pipe.

There are 2 street elbows supplied with the Magnaclean that require soldering to the existing pipe, but you could dump these and use compression elbows and 2 short lenghts of pipe.

It should be fitted, wherever possible, in the primary return to the boiler for full system and boiler protection.

You cannot tell if a rad has had it by what it looks like on the outside anywhere usually, as most corrode internally and won't show until there is a pin hole leak.

A Magnaclean should not be used instead of a full chemical flush, but as well as.

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Dave

www.drlgas.co.uk

If you use the forum facility to attach a pic it is far better for everyone.

Turn the boiler on, and see which pipe gets hot, the other one is the return.

A simple DIY job, although you'll have to buy addition compression fittings as the ones supplied are solder type.

The twintech with the filter is better, but the normal magnaclean is all I've ever fitted and it's done the job.

The system will be fine without inhibitor for quite a while, unless there's an underlying problem like a blocked cold feed.

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The magnetic sludge is black iron oxide. It is formed from contact between slightly oxidised water and the inside of steel radiators, pumps etc.

If there is a lot of oxygen, perhaps because you have a leak from an unpressurised system, hence replacement oxygenated air is drawn in, you'll get red iron oxide forming. That's not magnetic, so cannot be trapped by the magnaclean.

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I should be dead; I've cheated the Grim Reaper yet again by surviving my third heart attack in June.

For the benefit of the OP, I assume you are referring to the older model Stoday, I take it the twintech version that scruff referred to will catch this?

Thanks for the replies.

Is the twintech also fittable via compression fittings etc? Within the capabilities of an average DIYer?

Get the Magnaclean not the twintech, as you will be pushed for space, certainly when cleaning it.

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Magnatech now delivered. Am waiting for some slightly less freezing weather before I dare draining and cutting pipes.

Looks like it would be possible to mount the supplied valves on a straight section of pipe - though the unit itself wouldn't be vertical but at an angle (30 degrees?).

Does this matter, or does the unit have to be vertical? If that's the case I'll have to do what was suggested above and buy extra bits (compression elbows, some pipe (unless I use the bit I cut out).

Do I need a pipe cutter or will a hacksaw do?

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I should have typed that I got the magnaclean (there's no such thing as a magnatech heh) as advised.

In that case yes it can go at the natural angle of the fittings.

You can cut the pipe with cutters or a hacksaw and de-burr the pipe.

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