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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 10:20 am 
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Hi

Was going to just put up a wooden one then thought may as well brick it, two facing walls are face brick and the rear are block. Inside was roughed with waterproofer abd plastered but now walls are damp (expected really).

I have also had the outside of the block skimmed with cement.

Is there any way to remedy this ? It has two upvc windows with open vents.

I wish i just clad it now straight onto the block or roughing.

There is a dpc in place.

Will get some pics up when get chance.


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 11:44 am 
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why not insulate it with cellotex? then board and skim?
doesnt have to be silly thick, its not a 'habitable space', 25mm will do..
stick it to the walls with gripfill butt the joints, tape the joints with gaffertape
batten it out over the top of the cellotex with 25x50 tile lath, treated... @ 400 ctrs use self tapping concrete screws...
run any cables in this 25mm void..
board it..
skim it...
pukka.. :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 11:59 am 
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Is it damp due to water coming through the brickwork or condensation from within?

When you had the exterior rendered, did this breach the dpc?


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 6:01 pm 
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I think it is condensation mostly, all my weights have rusted !!!

Here are some pics of build and damp -

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My little helper...lol

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After painting last summer -

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NOW !!!!! :cb

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:dunno:


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 10:52 am 
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the problem your gettin is the walls are at a low temperature and the moisture in the air is reaching a dew point on the walls...
doesnt seem to be much on the ceiling.... did that get insulated?
maybe insulation on the walls will help considerably and let the sun warm the inside space up, maybe stick a dehumidifier in there to capture and residual moisture that gets in while your not using it but close the vents if thats the case? save it dragging it in through any gaps...
open em when your using it i.e. introducing moisture into the air - breathing etc...
if you can keep it warmer in there than the outside temperature and ventilate it then you shouldnt have a problem, the air pressure inside will try and force the air outside via then vents...
might be difficult at night without an internal heat source though... sun would warm it during the day through the glass...
theres things called 'humidity' vents that only open when they detect high levels of humidity and close again when its dry...
look a bit like the old 'in glazing' gas vents... might work, might not..
maybe a positive pressure ventilation system would work? drags air in form the outside and forces it back out again through any vents... keeps an airflow... but without heat, dunno if that would work.... prolly be more like a chiller room...

cheap dehumidifer prolly best bet imo... and if you can stretch to sticking some celotex on the walls too... go for it...

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 11:44 am 
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Two walls are concrete blocks and will soak up the rain/damp like blotting paper.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 1:43 pm 
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true, as in pic 8 (with the weight bench) where the damp patches can be seen on the corner piers where the 'dabs' are...
the rest of it is just condensation due to cold surfaces and lack of airflow though,

two problems here... one being penetrating damp, the other being condensation...
separate issues..
having the boards off, cleaning the dabs off and sticking celotex up there then battening over the top will prolly sort both of em.. but there still needs to be either lots of airflow or a way of maintaining a higher temperature in the building than outside or the boards on the insulation will eventually get cold enough to enable water to condense on them, insulation is good for keeping the heat in, but its got be be there in the first place...
maybe if the glass doors are south facing the sun might well do enough during the day to allow the insulation to do its job at night and keep the heat in there, and the boards at a high enough temperature...
im thinking more along the lines of 'winter time' where without a heat source, its going to be tricky keeping the walls warm, so a dehumidifier would sort of 'cheat' cheaper than heating the place artificially? no good introducing ventilation if all its gonna do is let moisture in as opposed to air pressure difference forcing it out...

if the budget doesnt extend to insulating the walls i reckon a dehumidifier is prolly the most cost effective solution, especially as without insulation, the walls will just leech any heat away...

still, all that said, unless you actually own a dehumidifier in the first place, the materials cost for a room that size would prolly be cheaper than buying one?

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 5:10 pm 
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What about a couple greenhouse heaters on a stat or on constantly, leaving the small window vents open ?

Or batten and clad with pvc stuff ? Plus put some insulation behind it ??

Don't really fancy emptying a dehumidifier all the time.


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:07 am 
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Gutted to see its gone like that. I have a block built garage which gets damp on one side as i couldn't get to the back of it to render it. I want to paint the inside white before kitting it out.

Like you i am looking to seal the inside.

Looking at brick sealants but still don't know if that will work. Looks like i used similar blocks to you. I wish i had used the more dense ones.

For you to seal though it would mean stripping it right back and still don't know if that will work.


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 9:21 pm 
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I have rendered the block with waterproofer, not sure if i could seal the bricks somehow ??

I have a dehumidifier which has an external drain pipe that i will stick in there. I can set it to what i want as well.

I am the going to get 2.6m cladding and cut them in half and batten/.clad 1.3m up. It is only 2m high inside so would be a waste to goto the ceiling....

I will take it from there then.


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