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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:02 pm 
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I need to trim about 1 to 2mm off a door edge, and am also in the market for a cordless circular saw (preferably Makita as I have batteries and a charger already).

So I was wondering if anyone had experience in using a cordless circular saw, using the edge guide to just take off 1 or 2mm? If so what make/model do you use?

Bunnings reckoned the Makita's they sell can only go down to 5mm off, but I am sure I have used a saw in the past (corded one) that I took a blade widths off a door (was a fair time ago) so it is within the realms of possibility. Unfortunately the makers specs that I can see only specify cutting depth.

Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:28 pm 
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you need a track saw or clamps and baton
you are restricted to about 3mm with the fence as the blade will be perhaps 1.5-2.2mm
also thinner the blade more chance it will deflect and cut squint unless there timber both sides off the blade

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:45 pm 
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Thanks, the batton idea is a good one. I think a length of ali box section would do the trick.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:05 pm 
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Taking 1mm off a door really needs to be done with a plane. And I like to slightly bevel the edge of the door as well so I always do this with a plane.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:18 pm 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
Taking 1mm off a door really needs to be done with a plane. And I like to slightly bevel the edge of the door as well so I always do this with a plane.


Never used a plane in anger so I would not be confident in making a good job of it.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:51 pm 
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You won't get a rip fence to go that close to the blade and in fact doing that there will be a tendency for the cut to wander all over the place and also for the blade to deflect and bite a chunk out of the fence . Instead, as pointed out by others, the way to make a rough cut is to use a circular saw guided in some way - a rail/track saw or a conventional rip saw guided by a timber batten/long spirit level/other straight edge clamped in place will do the job, but from experience you'll need to make the cut in several passes, you'll need to have the right blade in the saw (24 to 30t on a 160/165mm saw) and it will need to be sharp (this is not a task for that 5 year old Silverline junk blade with 60 teeth that you've been cutting concrete building blocks with ....) - and you'll almost certainly need a sharp plane at the end of all this to tidy-up and tune the cut

I've regularly sized doors with a Festool TS55 and rails, I've even done the same task using a Makita cordless and a 4ft level clamped to the door (slower, not quite as accurate as a rail saw, generally a bit more awkward to do) but in every case I finish and tune the cut using a hand plane, as Stevie recommends

BTW the saw I use is a Makita DHS680 which can trim 30 minute fire doors in 3 passes and I team mine with deWalt DT10624-QZ 24t blade which outperforms and outlasts every Makita blade I've tried. You could do the job with the smaller, brushed DSS611, but that will tend to bog down a lot more easily due to having only half the power/torque of the 680 meaning more, shallower passes and potentially a lot more risk of kickback

BTW ripping down doors eats batteries on cordless saws

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:01 pm 
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If it's really 1mm to come off then a plane is the only option.
Trying to take 1mm with a circular saw will end in a massive balls up and probably a new door required.
Sharp hand plane, 20 minute job. Or you could buy an electric plane if you don't want to use hand tools.



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:54 pm 
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columbiers wrote:
If it's really 1mm to come off then a plane is the only option.
Trying to take 1mm with a circular saw will end in a massive balls up and probably a new door required.
Sharp hand plane, 20 minute job. Or you could buy an electric plane if you don't want to use hand tools.

it can be done but needs to progress so slowly that burning can be an issue as you would take about 3 mins to do a door side at about 600mm a minuite

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:22 pm 
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big-all wrote:
columbiers wrote:
If it's really 1mm to come off then a plane is the only option.
Trying to take 1mm with a circular saw will end in a massive balls up and probably a new door required.
Sharp hand plane, 20 minute job. Or you could buy an electric plane if you don't want to use hand tools.

it can be done but needs to progress so slowly that burning can be an issue as you would take about 3 mins to do a door side at about 600mm a minuite


Agreed. But I just cant see someone who doesn't even currently own the saw being able to use it with millimetre perfection on such a cut.

And there's no need to- the correct tool for the job is a plane. It just seems crazy to me to use anything else- you could do 2 or 3 doors in the time it would take to accurately set up the saw for 1.

Practice planing on some scrap first if need be, it's a useful skill to learn.



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:28 pm 
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OK, points taken. I will get my self a plane and have a crack at some scrap wood first. Thanks all.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:40 pm 
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columbiers wrote:
big-all wrote:
columbiers wrote:
If it's really 1mm to come off then a plane is the only option.
Trying to take 1mm with a circular saw will end in a massive balls up and probably a new door required.
Sharp hand plane, 20 minute job. Or you could buy an electric plane if you don't want to use hand tools.

it can be done but needs to progress so slowly that burning can be an issue as you would take about 3 mins to do a door side at about 600mm a minuite


Agreed. But I just cant see someone who doesn't even currently own the saw being able to use it with millimetre perfection on such a cut.

And there's no need to- the correct tool for the job is a plane. It just seems crazy to me to use anything else- you could do 2 or 3 doors in the time it would take to accurately set up the saw for 1.

Practice planing on some scrap first if need be, it's a useful skill to learn.

yes sorry not being pedantic :lol:
my brain works in a helpful way with the solution iff possible coming forth automatically
it often wont be the best solution i know that :lol:
it just it was possible :huray:
i suppose more to the task
you need to cut the door to height top and bottom giving regards to floor covering and airflow if a bathroom with an extractor
fit to hinge side that more than likely will not be suitable to strait cut :dunno:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:12 am 
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When planing you need to be careful when you pass over the last edge of the door as it can dig in a bit and splinter the side of the door. A simple solution round this is to stick some masking tape tightly around the end.

Makita do a cordless planer


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:09 am 
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Manc chippy wrote:
When planing you need to be careful when you pass over the last edge of the door as it can dig in a bit and splinter the side of the door. A simple solution round this is to stick some masking tape tightly around the end.

Makita do a cordless planer


i did all my doors with an electric planer and worked well, but as you said the run off and indeed the starting part can catch DIYers out first time, especially if planing the short edges


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:10 pm 
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columbiers wrote:
And there's no need to- the correct tool for the job is a plane. It just seems crazy to me to use anything else- you could do 2 or 3 doors in the time it would take to accurately set up the saw for 1.

I've lost count of how many "old hands" I've heard that from, so it's obvious to me that you've never used a rail saw in anger (BTW I'm in my 60s and I've been using rail saws regularly for more than 20 years). For tasks like this in the right hands it is far, far faster (3 to 4 minutes) when working on multiples than a plane, hand or electric could ever be and is far less prone to break-out at the end of cut if the edge grain is sheared with a Stanley knife and square first. The problem is really the initial cost

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:12 pm 
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Job and Knock wrote:
columbiers wrote:
And there's no need to- the correct tool for the job is a plane. It just seems crazy to me to use anything else- you could do 2 or 3 doors in the time it would take to accurately set up the saw for 1.

I've lost count of how many "old hands" I've heard that from, so it's obvious to me that you've never used a rail saw in anger (BTW I'm in my 60s and I've been using rail saws regularly for more than 20 years). For tasks like this in the right hands it is far, far faster (3 to 4 minutes) when working on multiples than a plane, hand or electric could ever be and is far less prone to break-out at the end of cut if the edge grain is sheared with a Stanley knife and square first. The problem is really the initial cost


You may well be right. I might even be tempted to use my tracksaw myself I was doing it.

But the questioner doesn't have a tracksaw. They don't have a circular saw either. I don't think they could set up and get an accurate cut as a one off quicker and better than planing it down. It's not about how quick and easy you find it with 20 years experience of a tracksaw. It's about him/her and his own door.

Maybe I've underestimated the breakout issue with a hand plane. I've always clamped up to edges or gone from both sides and been fine.

Also I agree about the cost- with even a Titan at £100ish, can that really be worth it for one door? I LOVE buying tools but an element of DIY is about cost- unless you're careful you quickly negate that with the great tools you splash out on. Things like tracksaws need regular use to justify the cost for most people.


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