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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:22 pm 
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Job and Knock wrote:
columbiers wrote:
And there's no need to- the correct tool for the job is a plane. It just seems crazy to me to use anything else- you could do 2 or 3 doors in the time it would take to accurately set up the saw for 1.

I've lost count of how many "old hands" I've heard that from, so it's obvious to me that you've never used a rail saw in anger (BTW I'm in my 60s and I've been using rail saws regularly for more than 20 years). For tasks like this in the right hands it is far, far faster (3 to 4 minutes) when working on multiples than a plane, hand or electric could ever be and is far less prone to break-out at the end of cut if the edge grain is sheared with a Stanley knife and square first. The problem is really the initial cost


I haven't touched a plane for doors since I got my tracksaw, except the block plane for easing the edges. Learnt that here, probably from you lol.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:34 pm 
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columbiers wrote:
You may well be right. I might even be tempted to use my tracksaw myself I was doing it.

But the questioner doesn't have a tracksaw. They don't have a circular saw either. I don't think they could set up and get an accurate cut as a one off quicker and better than planing it down. It's not about how quick and easy you find it with 20 years experience of a tracksaw. It's about him/her and his own door.

To put the matter straight - as I read it, your statement had no qualifications. My response was specifically to correct the impression that the job cannot be done with a circular saw, or done quickly. As it happens there have been occasions when I've needed to cut down doors and the only saw I've had to hand has been a cordless (hell, there have been times in the past when it's been a hand saw and a block plane). It takes concentration to use a circular saw and a batten, but even with a clamped batten (or more likely a 6ft level) a door can be resized, but as I also said you need a plane to finish the edges because the saw won't give the best of surfaces. And if the blade has too many teeth or isn't sharp it or the cut is too deep or the saw is over-fed the blade can wander (same goes for cheap blades, especially).

When you get into hand planes you are opening a whole new can of worms. I never failed to be amazed (or rather appalled) at how many of the young joiners I've worked with cannot sharpen and tune a hand plane properly - surely a basic requirement to do the job? - because they've never been given the instruction or gained the experience. I've also seen countless posts from DIYers who have similar issues with hand planes

columbiers wrote:
Things like tracksaws need regular use to justify the cost for most people.

I agree. If you are a DIYer who intends to make quite a few items of furniture they are a boon. They are one of those tools you keep finding more and more things to use them for (like cutting-out sections of floor - old blades being a must)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:11 pm 
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I am not sure the Titan saw supplied track length is long enough for the OP to take down a door edge. The extra track costs half as much again so it makes it pricey for one door. I would use my power planer in this instance. Work from both ends to avoid breakout and will be achievable by inexperienced hands.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:23 pm 
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dewaltdisney wrote:
I am not sure the Titan saw supplied track length is long enough for the OP to take down a door edge. The extra track costs half as much again so it makes it pricey for one door. I would use my power planer in this instance. Work from both ends to avoid breakout and will be achievable by inexperienced hands.

DWD


Turns out my Dad has a power plane that I never knew he had, so I am going to borrow that and take your (and others advice) and use that.


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