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Cam belt change
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Rich-Ando
Approved Electrician


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 2618
Location: Derby, Derbyshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 3:46 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Hitch wrote:
I used to be like that Rich.... II had to do a clutch cable... big bar in the top of gearbox.... pull cable, bar slipped out, had my hand... so i threw it and dented the bonnet, then kicked hell into the front bumper Laughing

Luckily, it was only a fiesta Laughing

LOOL i think i have posted this somewhere else on here b4 but ill give a qick idea again, incase you never saw it:-

i smashed the van door window in temper b4, the missus went to have a go at me telling me how clever it was to do so i smashed the windscreen to prove a point.

i have ripped apart an old ital(very old) on a dual carriageway and got asked by the police ot move the car off the road.

i have smashed the orion engine up because it hurt my knuckles when i slipped tightening a nut.

i have kicked in a mini when it let me down for the last time

and a few more things too.

that is why i pay out for them to be fixed now


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Foggy
Senior Member


Joined: 13 Oct 2007
Posts: 1249
Location: Lincoln

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:15 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

haha start calling you Basil from now on Thumbright
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Northern P
Junior Member


Joined: 03 Mar 2008
Posts: 3
Location: Oop North

PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:09 pm    Post subject: Belt change\sprocket marks Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Hi, read and took in all about the marks to get TDC on diesel escort, however I am in a bit of a quandry, I've got the lot stripped out on my 96 1.8, inner wing off, alternator off, all covers etc etc, got the full belt kit and tensioners, but, I cannot for the life of me find this crankshaft locking off pinhole on cylinder block!, think I will have to use a mirror as suggested, is it removed with alun key? it does not say with diagrams and instuctions that came with belt kit from Ford! If I cannot do it this way, is there another way of locking off the crank, assuming all other markings are lined up correctly? whilst on the diagrams, in said instructions, I have on plate at back of camshaft sprocket a silver mark at 12 o'clock position and a silver mark on sprocket, do these have to be lined up? on my injector pump sprocket casing, again, a silver mark at 12 'o clock and one on sprocket, do they line up as well? I ask this because in the instuctions mentioned above it says to lock off cam with tool (6mm drillbit) when I do this the only hole it will lock to puts the mark on cam sprocket at the 4 o'clock position? On fuel pump sprocket there is a tiny dot like drill hole on a cog tooth (bit like a timing mark) when silver paint marks are aligned at 12 o'clock, that mark is at 4, o'clock, Please please someone explain before I top meself!!!!
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iceni
Member


Joined: 01 Aug 2007
Posts: 71

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:13 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

As I recall the locking pin plug is removerd with a 10mm scoket using a 6" extension.

There are no 'Silver marks' on the sprockets, these were likely put on by someone at an earlier strip down.

If the marks were for alignment at an earlier stripdown / rebuild, the 6mm alignment holes might be a little out, hence you not being to get the drill bit in.

The groove cut in the back of the camshaft should be at the bottom, check you do not have it 180° out.

Have you got a crank alignment pin?
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Northern P
Junior Member


Joined: 03 Mar 2008
Posts: 3
Location: Oop North

PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:30 pm    Post subject: cambelt change Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Thanks for that iceni, I agree with you on the silver marks, it was confusing me a little. Reading all the instuctions I have, I havn't come accross a crank alignment pin, I assumed this was the substitute (6mm drill bit) or is there another way of locking off the bottom (crank) pully to undo and loosen to facilitate putting new belt on?
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iceni
Member


Joined: 01 Aug 2007
Posts: 71

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

The alignment pin, is just that, it aligns the crank not holds it in position.

It protrudes into the crankcase and you turn the crank round until the balance weight contacts it. This gives you TDC (top dead centre).

If you hit the pin too hard it could bend and prevent it being withdrawn, then you really wll be stuck.

The 6mm drill aligns the fuel pump sprocket, so in all there are three items.

6mm drill (fuel pump), plate (end of camshaft) and the crank pin.

The crankpin is an M10 x 45mm long screw, the end being reduced to 6mm for a length of 35mm
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Northern P
Junior Member


Joined: 03 Mar 2008
Posts: 3
Location: Oop North

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:08 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Thanks once again, did all that, got it sorted and whilst turning the engine over I noticed a prominent click sound, even louder when it fired up ( well it would wouldn't it!!) took off rocker cover only to find out that the exhaust valve tappet shim collet on No 1 cylinder keeps sticking down then releasing when cam lobe is nearly at top, had a word with a mobile mechanic and he tells me the push rod is probably bent which means the head off etc etc about £400, may as well get another van, already wasted £90 on cambelt kit!! I weren't even moving when the belt went, sods law eh! Ah well thanks for all your input it will stand me good for next time, but then again I don't intend to have a next time and at least I know what tolerance there is in this engine when the cambelt goes, Sodding NONE!!!! Crying
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