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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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big-all
Pro Carpenter
Joined: 16 Dec 2006
Posts: 2654
Location: redhill surrey an auld reekie laddie
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 Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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its a comprimise tool
wont realy do any job quickly extra parts atr expensive
cutting arcatraves
1 hardpoint saw offcut of flooring upside down with 2 layers of underlay underneath
i suspect the cutting progress of the bosch is going to be simmilar to using a hacksaw with blunt teeth 
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:06 am Post subject: |
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| big-all wrote: |
its a comprimise tool
wont realy do any job quickly extra parts atr expensive
cutting arcatraves
1 hardpoint saw offcut of flooring upside down with 2 layers of underlay underneath
i suspect the cutting progress of the bosch is going to be similar to using a hacksaw with blunt teeth |
So I take it you are not impressed, then 
I saw the cost of the blades and thought it could virtually be cheaper to buy a new tool rather then new blades.
I'll take the advice of a pro and let someone else be a guinea pig for testing it 
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ultimatehandyman
Site Admin
Joined: 16 Jul 2005
Posts: 9278
Location: Darwen, Lancashire
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:42 am Post subject: |
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It looks like a fein multimaster to me!
For trimming the architrave and skirting a fein multimaster will work, but they are about twice of the price of that bosch saw above. I also believe that you would need a few blades to do a full room and the blades are also expensive!
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big-all
Pro Carpenter
Joined: 16 Dec 2006
Posts: 2654
Location: redhill surrey an auld reekie laddie
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:14 am Post subject: |
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| Hoovie wrote: |
So I take it you are not impressed, then
I saw the cost of the blades and thought it could virtually be cheaper to buy a new tool rather then new blades.
I'll take the advice of a pro and let someone else be a guinea pig for testing it |
i know nothing about the bosch it may at the size be an exelent tool
its the accsesories costs that would put me off considering it
also the power is around 25% of a decent jigsaw and i am assuming small orbits mean slow progress
there are a lot of assumtions in my conclusion 
so form your own opinion but running costs look ott
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owen
BANNED
Joined: 31 Jul 2006
Posts: 475
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:35 am Post subject: |
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i think compared to the fein it looks good value.
although most of the jobs you have listed hoovie are just as easy with a saw, and a lot, lot cheaper! there are better power tools out there to throw money at IMO! 
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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| owen wrote: |
i think compared to the fein it looks good value.
although most of the jobs you have listed hoovie are just as easy with a saw, and a lot, lot cheaper! there are better power tools out there to throw money at IMO! |
But I need power and got weak arms - more training required ....
 :tongue1:  :sleepy2:
answer: 
As an aside, what is the best way to strip down a plaster and lath ceiling to the bare joists ready for reboarding?
My preferred option right now is to buy in the following:
8 cans of beer - for me
1 Plasterer - for ceiling
1 new vacuum - for mess (did a ceiling about 10' x 10' about 8 years ago for a bathroom conversion and god did it make a mess - picking plaster out my mouth for weeks after (when I was told to use something with good teeth, should have sussed they meant a saw ))
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bathstyle
BATHROOM DESIGN AND INSTALLATION
Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 789
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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If it's an upstairs ceiling then knock a few holes in the ceiling where it meets the wall, leave the room, close the door and tape it up (leave window in room open)
Go into the loft and kick the ceiling down from above, you will see the holes that you made earlier as a guide to how far to knock down.
Go downstairs and make a cuppa, re enter the room and clean up mess, remove nails from timber.
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 8:56 am Post subject: |
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| bathstyle wrote: |
If it's an upstairs ceiling then knock a few holes in the ceiling where it meets the wall, leave the room, close the door and tape it up (leave window in room open)
Go into the loft and kick the ceiling down from above, you will see the holes that you made earlier as a guide to how far to knock down.
Go downstairs and make a cuppa, re enter the room and clean up mess, remove nails from timber. |
Sounds very violent and very effective (not sure how to seal up a landing though!!)
I could even go in the loft ..... accidently walk on the plaster..... opps hole..."hello, Mr Pru, got a problem, send a man round"......... 
If I ever buy a house with plaster and lath ceilings again, first thing I will do before moving in is knock 'em all in - they always gonna cause problems 
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stevemastic
Senior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 1175
Location: Cuckoo's nest
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| Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 9:36 am Post subject: |
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If I have to seal an open area I use, polythene sheeting by the roll (used my automotive bodyshops at about £33.00 +vat for good stuff) that opens up to approx 4.5metres wide, some draper telescopic props & some roof battens top & bottom. that 33 quid will last ages & can double up as dust covers at lazy peoples property.
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:08 am Post subject: |
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FWIW, I bought one of these the other day in the end.
I had some very tricker wood I needed to cut out in situ very close to bath, pipework and tiles and thought this may do the job.
And as I was lookng for a detail sander anyway which this tool does, I decided to splash out - £60 at BnQ now.
Got the work done in about 10 minutes that I has been looking at for days thinking "how the **** am I going to trim that?" so I am happy
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If you have a son, DO NOT name him after a verb ....
"Neil, Standup. Neil, Standup"
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big-all
Pro Carpenter
Joined: 16 Dec 2006
Posts: 2654
Location: redhill surrey an auld reekie laddie
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| Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:25 am Post subject: |
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look forward to the full review in the tool section :grin: :grin:
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:30 am Post subject: |
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Well, one job does not maketh a tool :grin:
I have got some arthitrave lined up to try him on and a bit of sanding, but so far, I am impressed. (bugger shakes, rattles and rolls a bit though - cutting along a battern by one end of the bath and the foamy bottle the other end fell over into it)
Same tool on SFX is £100 - and too much. BnQ at £60 is pretty fair I think.
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If you have a son, DO NOT name him after a verb ....
"Neil, Standup. Neil, Standup"
"Which is it, man?" |
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bathstyle
BATHROOM DESIGN AND INSTALLATION
Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 789
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| Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Where do you get spare blades from and how much for the wood blade?
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Hoovie
Devon DIYer
Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 7773
Location: East Devon
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| Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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Tooledup sell the tool itself as well as the full range of accessories (i got mine from BnQ as same price and convienient)
narrow Wood blade is about £8, wider wood blade is about £6
For my purposes - DIY - the amount of use a tool gets would probably be a lot less then yourself and consequently the cost of new blades is less important.
I will admit it - I get tools to make a job easier to do well, not neccessarily cheaper or faster.
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If you have a son, DO NOT name him after a verb ....
"Neil, Standup. Neil, Standup"
"Which is it, man?" |
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