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 Post subject: BMW brake line repair.
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:42 am 
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I need to replace the rear steel break lines on my BMW which are corroded.
I have previously replaced complete steel lines on a fiesta with copper so I have the tools needed for the job.
The BMW is different animal, I do not want to replace all the break line just the corroded part.
Can I cut and join the steel line to copper with correct fittings?
Will I be able to flare the cut steel end?
Do I have to follow original path (major headache) or find a simple route providing out of the way and safe?

Many thanks

Brad


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:51 am 
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I'm constantly amazed that people will be prepared to modify parts of cars that are essential safety items and the brakes are one area that it's just not worth the cost or risk to mess with.

Replacement brake lines (already bent, flared etc) can be found in most major cities or ordered through car factors or the retail outlets at the distributors.

For the difference in costs, the trouble in making up your own etc just doesn't seem worth the effort and factoring in the potential for major catastrophe..... why bother?

But yes, you can bend your own. Yes you can use copper (with attendant corrosion risk due to dissimilar metals) and yes you can flare them.

They are routed to be clear of heat and mechanical damage but too many bends may affect the brake pressure (balance).

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 11:01 am 
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I appreciate your comments.
In order to replace the lines with factory made pre bent requires the exhaust, prop shaft and fuel tank be removed.
I am competent DIY mechanic but if I can find an easier way than the above I will.
I am aware that the lines need to be routed in a safe position.
I know copper can be flared, I've done it before, I have the tools.
My question is can I make a join in the existing pipe this is really what I need to know?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:28 pm 
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Assuming your flaring tool is half decent you should be able to to create a suitable type of flare to splice the pipe.
What sort of flare are you planning on using?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:56 pm 
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I've done this on a Forester where the end 1" of steel brake line corroded. As above all kinds of stuff needed to be removed to fit a replacement ...like fuel tank, exhaust, drive shaft etc. I cut 6" off flared with a DIY double flaring tool available from Machine Mart (not designed for use on steel pipes)and joined 6" of new 'copper' pipe on with all the correct fittings etc. Been through several MOTs including the one it initially failed on the corroded pipe with. Had to do the same the other side a couple of years later when the rusty end twisted off while trying to undo the connection for another job.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 9:52 am 
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I have joined brake line lots of times. Just join with something like this (depending on size):

https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/b ... -m12-x-1mm

Different types of metal are not normally a good idea, but I have had steel fitting to brass connector for about 8 years with no problem. Just keep an eye on it.

Rerouting is also no problem. I tend to always reroute mine for ease. I have a 4x4 where they put the break lines on before the body, so rerouting is often the easiest thing to do.

Ignore what some people say about "messing with the brakes" As long as you have good quality kit and make good flares and don't kink the pipe on bends there is no problem. I have the sykes pickavant flaremaster which I recommend.


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