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Rogue
Junior Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2007
Posts: 25
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 Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:08 pm Post subject: Best Way to Transition High Tiles to Carpet |
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Hi All
Advice appreciated on this. Due to tile over floorboards in bathroom. Have got some 12mm WBP ply to go down first. Then of course adhesive and tiles which will raise the floor another few millimetres. Bathroom door leads to a hall which is to be recarpeted and so this hall floor will end up I guess at least 12 mm lower than the tiled bathroom floor floor when carpet and underlay is taken into account.
What is the best way to transition this height difference at the door threshold? I am reluctant to get into removing floorboards and fit thicker WBP etc to reduce floor height height in the bathroom. What options might I use in this type of height transition fron a higher tiled floor to carpet?
Bathroom door is due to be replaced including a new door frame so door height can be adjusted to suit the opening accordingly. |
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Jaeger_S2k
Senior Member
Joined: 19 Nov 2006
Posts: 2786
Location: North West, England, United Kingdom
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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Have a similar situation but haven't fitted it yet.
Had the tiles laid square to the door casing leaving a gap from bathroom to hall through the casing (if you follow) this will be filled with a hardwood sill chamfered to fall from bathroom to hall. Hall carpet will enter door casing space and the sill will have a rebate to fit over fitted carpet.
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Jaeger.
"Does my bum look BIG in this?" Wit's a Ba' Hair in Metric? 
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Only-Me
Senior Member
Joined: 31 Jul 2006
Posts: 1016
Location: South/West
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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You can either make a hardwood door bar.........
Or
Topps do a chrome or Brassy effect transition bar that can take out up to 15mm height difference  |
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Rogue
Junior Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2007
Posts: 25
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks guys. Looks like a hardwood door bar it is. Also Jaeger I see exactly where you are coming from as this has confirmed my thoughts about leaving the tiles square to the door casing which I was a bit undecided about. Do you know if an off shelf door bar is thick enough on the tile side which I guess will be near 20mm or do you need to make one? |
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Jaeger_S2k
Senior Member
Joined: 19 Nov 2006
Posts: 2786
Location: North West, England, United Kingdom
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| Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:49 pm Post subject: |
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I haven't looked. 
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Jaeger.
"Does my bum look BIG in this?" Wit's a Ba' Hair in Metric?
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tim'll fix it
BANNED
Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
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| Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:06 am Post subject: |
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I tile under to the middle of the underneath of the door is possible but more often than not to the carpet in the room adjoining. I used a silver or gold transistion strip, the type for laminate flooring, I get them from B&Q
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Rogue
Junior Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2007
Posts: 25
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| Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:37 am Post subject: |
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Having a further look at this project and am now wondering is it possible to avoid raising the toilet and just tile around it at the new floor height? Of course this would require some awkward tile cutting around toilet base. The new tiles would also meet the toilet base about 15mm further up the base.
The toilet is already sitting on an old tile (left there after old tiles were removed from floorboards!) and is approx 10mm off the floorboards as it is. I am reluctant to pull toilet out and raise it fully onto new tiles as the added height of the new floor will require longer lengths of piping for the water supply. I would also have to disturb existing wall tiles to refix the waste pipe.
The floorboards would be awkward to remove to put in a thicker WBP to leave floor at same height. This would likely require removal of shower cubicle and various other awkward factors around stud walls so this is not an appealling solution either.
Would tiling around the toilet just where it sits work or look ok ? Any one had experience of this? |
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Jaeger_S2k
Senior Member
Joined: 19 Nov 2006
Posts: 2786
Location: North West, England, United Kingdom
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| Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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It'll be fine.
How it will look is down to how well you cut in the tiles and grout round the bowl.
Q? - Is it suitable to clean off the existing base of the bowl and reseal it with silicone (nice and tidy) and then tile round the bowl and grout to match?
That would achieve a good seal around the base of the bowl and give a good cosmetic finish.
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Jaeger.
"Does my bum look BIG in this?" Wit's a Ba' Hair in Metric?
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Rogue
Junior Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2007
Posts: 25
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| Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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Yes this is a possibility. However having looked things over again I have now decided to have a shot at replacing the floorboards altogether with WBP and secure where necessary with noggins. This will eliminate the step up into the bathroom altogether. Also means I can put toilet back exactly where it was and tile underneath it. Of course it means more work but hopefully I wont be looking at it again.
One issue - I can only get my hands on 18mm WBP (which is same thickness as original floorboards) but I am wondering if this thickness of WBP is rigid enough. The tiles are standard ceramic 32 cm tilles and floor joists are at 400 centres.
18 mm WBP to replace floorboards good enough for this job? |
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tim'll fix it
BANNED
Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
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| Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:38 am Post subject: |
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should be 22mm really minimum
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Jaeger_S2k
Senior Member
Joined: 19 Nov 2006
Posts: 2786
Location: North West, England, United Kingdom
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| Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:49 am Post subject: |
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22mm to minimise bounce.
18mm is a risk you might NOT want to take? 
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Jaeger.
"Does my bum look BIG in this?" Wit's a Ba' Hair in Metric?
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