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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 9:36 am 
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I still fail to understand the need.....

Surely the pipework is held supported along its length regardless? It would fail the MOT to be 'hanging in the air' :dunno:

Why is there an additional need for support and what do you hope to achieve by it? Will it stop some vibration? Will it add any support it NEEDS? Are all the proper chassis clips there for it in the first place (and if not shouldn't you just replace them?)

But why wouldn't a p-clip either side of the connection work?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 10:12 am 
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kellys_eye wrote:
I still fail to understand the need.....

Surely the pipework is held supported along its length regardless? It would fail the MOT to be 'hanging in the air' :dunno:

Why is there an additional need for support and what do you hope to achieve by it? Will it stop some vibration? Will it add any support it NEEDS? Are all the proper chassis clips there for it in the first place (and if not shouldn't you just replace them?)

But why wouldn't a p-clip either side of the connection work?



The car does not have an MOT it is currently stored in a barn. The car does not use P clips for the connections. It uses special brackets that are welded onto the chassis. The brackets have a hex shape punched into them, which the hex connector sits in. The problem is the hex connector is 14mm, when common connectors you buy off the shelf have an external diameter of 13mm. This is a sloppy fit, so if I do what I want to do I can bolt it securely. With this in mind:

1) I don't want to change anything on the vehicle. I want to use the original fittings.
2) I will not drill any more holes into the vehicle and will not use P clips.
3) I don't want to buy the manufacturers part. I prefer to make something which will save time and money.

It's a shame you can't get something like this:

Image


But I just found these today. They are for brake pipes, brass and already round 90% of the way. So think I may buy one and give it a go:

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 11:52 am 
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Adam32 wrote:

1) I don't want to change anything on the vehicle. I want to use the original fittings.


Then buy them.

You state that this will involve a delay (maybe some expense) but if 'originality' is your aim you have no choice other than to expose your self as a hypocrite.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 12:17 pm 
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pmsl - just go buy the part for the car if the car even exists or buy the correct pipe fitting - female to female 3/8 or 1/4 bulkhead fitting

the time you have wasted you could have the part delivered and fitted


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 12:39 pm 
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Adam32 wrote:

3) I don't want to buy the manufacturers part. I prefer to make something which will save time and money.



Have a look here at the MOT testers manual:
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_360.htm
Point A3
"Check all braking system components for any inappropriate repair or modification."

I'd have said that anything involving modifying actual brake line components by anyone apart from a qualified motor engineer would be covered by that.

And rightly so.

I'd use the proper part every time.

Brakes are not something you want to take any chances with at all.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:46 pm 
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It's okay I have found some brass ones which are the perfect size anyway. So I don't have to mod anything.

My philosophy with the vehicle is if I can't find it standard off the shelf, I mod it myself. I refuse to pay stupid prices.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 2:21 pm 
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Don't you just love a Darwin candidate :lol: Hopefully you won't take anyone with you as you fly off the cliff. ::b


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:04 pm 
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You arnt Russian are you ? Arthur tussik will straighten your car once you bend it, he has all the tools, his mate a ditch digger so he can repair your brake lines with some straws and hot glue

Ot. this man can work wonders



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 6:00 pm 
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To be fair I find some of the replies on here a little patronising. There are plenty of assumptions being made:

1) You don't know the exact connector I would eventually select to do this. Without this you don't know the wall thickness.
2) You know nothing about the specific hydraulics which are on the vehicle. You don't know the piston / bore sizes etc and can't calculate the exact pressures. As far as people know it could even be a ride on dinky car!

Without these things you can't make any exact stress calculations, but yet people automatically "assume" it will fail. Plus I never came here for a lecture on safety.

Plus I am sure many people have been in a car when brake pipes have ruptured. I once drove an old tyota hilux pickup 100 miles at 2am, after one of the brake pipes ruptured. I had no choice as I had no breakdown cover and was in the middle of nowhere. I just took it easy home and replaced the pipe in the morning.

I have nothing more to add to this thread.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 7:33 pm 
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Ah that's a shame you could drag it out a few more pages

With the vague information and the lack of your response to simple questions

1.With the information given we could only assume on sizes, if you don't give the details how do we know
2.braking systems typically works on 250-1500 psi again this was assumed as no information was given or forthcoming on the application

3. don't assume people know nothing about a subject till you ask them, fluid dynamics isn't rocket science


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 7:46 pm 
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Only 50yds to go, bit Fuc$ing scary coming down that hill with no breaks Brov :lol:

I can smell burning Sis I think my shoes are on fire


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