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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 3:06 pm 
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Just bought 2 Hardwood Oak Suffolk Internal Door's from Travis Perkins. 24kg in weight. I've bought new hinges (75mm) 3 of them on there, from B&Q, chrome plated. But after about half and hour they start creaking, Ive had 2 sets on, not sure if the hinges are poor quality so what would be a good hinge to put on?
Went back to B&Q and the guy reckoned to put the 100 mm ones on but other forums i've read seem to think they are for fire doors, also the width puts them about 3mm from the edge of door as the are much wider, so would be worried about cutting too close to the veneer.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 4:08 pm 
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You can get top quality hinges that have ball-bearings in, from places like Screwfix.



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 4:08 pm 
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A ball bearing hinge would likely be better, you can get either 3" or 4"

Are you sure that the hinges are all properly in line?

If the hinges recess is very close to the edge the best way to cut it is with a marking gauge, I keep one especially sharpened up for just that purpose and don't use it as a marking gauge

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 4:09 pm 
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I think arco-iris has just sat down for a cup of tea, same as me. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:22 pm 
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:withstupid: - both of them!

Ball bearing hinges are generally (but not always) fire-rated hinges, but they are smoother in use and last far longer than the cheaper washered or the very cheapest butted plain hinges. I use them almost every time given a choice.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:57 pm 
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Thanks guys, that sounds a good idea, i've never heard of them i'll look them up.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 2:03 pm 
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aye ball bearing hinges. never use any other type



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:12 pm 
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I’ll get slated for saying this but 4” flush or hurl hinges work a treat now on internal doors and look fine and require no notching out. They take minutes to fit and they are becoming common place now.
Not suitable for fire doors or external doors but more than adequate for internals.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:43 am 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
I’ll get slated for saying this but 4” flush or hurl hinges work a treat now on internal doors and look fine and require no notching out. They take minutes to fit and they are becoming common place now.
Not suitable for fire doors or external doors but more than adequate for internals.


Stevie, You’ve just had your joiner status downgraded to handyman...

I guess they are ok on lightweight doors but heavier doors I suspect would be better with recessed hinges.

Off topic...Any jigs our there to aid recessing?
I have 10 singles & a double to install!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:10 am 
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getthewheelsinline wrote:

Off topic...Any jigs our there to aid recessing?
I have 10 singles & a double to install!


You can buy a hinge jig, the best ones are not cheap though, I made my own from some spare Respatex and a bit of 2X1 batten.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-1250mm ... -jig/49835

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:02 am 
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I’ve never used a hinge jig tbh. A sharp chisel and a marking gauge do the job.
However that’s when the flush hinges aren’t being used :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:13 am 
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I made my own jig when I had lot of doors to fit in one go. I cut it out of 6mm MDF and used a guide bush on my router. I designed it with a right angled back to make it hold firm and clamped it in place each time with a handy cramp. My little Bosch router was easy to manoeuvre and the rebates were perfect. A little bit of time calculating the cut out accurately is time well spent. :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:20 am 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
I’ve never used a hinge jig tbh. A sharp chisel and a marking gauge do the job.
However that’s when the flush hinges aren’t being used :lol:


I didn't bother with one for a long time, but for price work they do speed things up quite a bit.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:57 am 
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@ Getthewheelsinline. If you make a jig then allow the top platform to be wide enough for the router base to be well supported during the cut. The right angled support has to be positioned under the platform so the the hinge cut out is consistently where you want it on the face edge of the door. Leave a good overlap on the right angle support for your clamps so they do not foul the routers passage. Do a couple of trial mortices on an old door to get the process off. It is a bit fiddly but when you do all the hinge mortices in ten minutes the time spent making the jig is justified..

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:24 pm 
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dewaltdisney wrote:
I made my own jig when I had lot of doors to fit in one go. I cut it out of 6mm MDF and used a guide bush on my router. I designed it with a right angled back to make it hold firm and clamped it in place each time with a handy cramp. My little Bosch router was easy to manoeuvre and the rebates were perfect. A little bit of time calculating the cut out accurately is time well spent. :thumbright:

DWD


Exactly what I did for all of mine. Used the existing recesses in the frames (where old frames were reused) trim up the door and mark the positions, simply centre the jig on the marks, a quick grip to hold it in place and a few seconds with the router.

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