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 Post subject: Belle Mixer Motor issues
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:38 pm 
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I just bought 2004 Belle minimix 140 240volt second hand from a con merchant on Ebay. Ran for 2 mins and stopped and clearly this had been happening previously.

Removed motor and found that the back bearing casing (at the fan end) fails causing the armature to rub on the inside of the windings. The back bearing casing is pressed steel - the front is die cast, and the steel eventually bends with age allowing the bearing outer casing to spin in it and create play which allows the armature to move enough to ground on the windings inside.

This has caused the motor to overheat and probably a winding has failed. In my case no continuity from the Live in Blue wire from the switch to anywhere else?????

In this case it is probably the winding connected to the switch via the Blue wire - the switched live to the motor. This is also connected to the auto latch coil inside the switch such that when you hold the switch in, the motor starts and then holds itself on. So - even though I have now persuaded the steel bearing casing with my hammer back to where it belongs, and the motor spins freely, I can't get the motor to latch on - even though it runs very quietly now.

Did my AC motor theory in 1966 so very rusty.

Got in touch with ATB - the makers of the motor who supplied Belle for this 2004 model and they say contact Belle as they themselves have a minimum Transaction fee of £120.00. Not helpful.

I cannot find a wiring diagram of the motor to confirm my guess but I'm going to give up and buy a new motor off Ebay - about £85.

There are loads of comments around with regard to the switch needing replacement - I took mine apart and they are elementary and unlikely to go wrong. The problem will be in the motor in most cases creating these kinds of issues
Low torque - stop the drum easily
No start - or motor just hums when powered on.
Switch will not latch.

I'd suggest you don't waste your time like I have - even if my motor repair had been successful from the bearing casing perspective I would not have liked to have found out in a weeks time that the repair didn't last long and be up to my neck in half mixed muck when the motor failed again.

I have the wiring details recorded - but not in file format - if anyone needs that to connect back up their switch and motor.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:13 pm 
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Why didn't you just send it back?. If you paid with pay pal you can get a refund through them and if you give the evidence to e bay also they can get the payment back if pay pal cant. I know i wouldn't have messed about with it, its broken its their fault get your money back!.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:59 pm 
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ive actually fixed 2 belle mixers by replacing the switch. it would cut out. they are now both running without a problem. one for the past few months and one for a few years now.

mind you i dont doubt that you could be well correct. they arent the best built machines nowadays lol


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:09 pm 
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Hi there - thanks for your responses. I've actually found three faults with the mixer I bought and seem to have now a fully working mixer without buying any spares - contrary to my last message where I'd about given up.

1 - Intermittent power lead from plug to switch - easy fix of course.

2 - Motor failure - removed motor and reformed the rear ( fan end ) bearing mounting to hold centrally and firmly in place - is pressed steel rather than the other end which is die cast alloy. Armature was fouling windings. Runs smoothly now. Will use and see how long fix lasts but no reason why not another 7 years. Motor windings seem OK but you mustn't run the motor long on the bench because the cooling doesn't work effectively until fitted into the housing with the fan on.

3 - Power would not latch on - removed switch and it does come apart and its a pretty simple but crude affair. Problem was with the connection to the power hold solenoid. The connections to which are just a push interference connection with the internal terminals. Cleaned these connections and of course the main power switch connections. Switch now holds on properly and I'm well pleased. Maybe a bit of time and fiddly job to save about a tenner, but I'm out of work - so plenty of time and no money.

Anyone who needs to attamept this and wants to discuss then please message me and I'll help all I can.

Regards

Ken


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:50 pm 
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if you took pictures itd be a handy guide to post up.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:31 pm 
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The mixer is all back together now. What did you think I should photo please? The switch? Motor? Not sure. I also found out that the wiring to my switch had been tampered with - probably to overcome the switch latch issue. Anyway - got that sorted from various info on the net and it all works fine for 20 mins and then stops. This is due to overheat. The larger of the two Blue wires ( from Live in 23 ) goes off into the motor and through a temp sensor and returns to connect to the small connector on its own ( A1 ). This is the supply to the switch latch mechanism so when the temp overheat sensor goes open circuit the latch turns off the motor.

Not sure why the motor is overheating because the mixer is only lightly loaded. Fan is fitted and airways are clear. I'll probably strip it all apart and check all the windings again - I've now fixed my meter so can use that.

While it's apart I could do those photos. I'll also put a photo of the switch wiring details.

Ken


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 9:08 pm 
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what i meant was like basically a step by step guide to how other users might fix these problems. it seems easy to you. but when mine broke i bought a new switch. ive also had other issues with these mixers but theyve ended up being pinched before ive been able to get them repaired. just a shame thieves normally pinch decent stuff rather than broken mixers


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:37 am 
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Hi there,
I've got a similar problem with my mc130.
When you said your mixer ran for 20 mins. and then stopped, did you mean it stopped dead and was silent, or did it slow down, then stop with a hum, because that is what mine does, and the only way to get it going again is to press the stop switch, and then the start switch after which, it runs for about 10secs. and then stops in the same way as before.
Oddly, the last time I used it which was yesterday, it ran for 3 hours before stopping, and the time before that it ran for 1 min. from cold before stopping.
Chris.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:41 am 
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Forgot to add that when restarting after it stops, I have to rotate the drum by hand at the same time as pressing the start button.
Still only runs for about 10secs. Not very usefull for a concrete mixer!!!!
Any Ideas?
Chris.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:25 pm 
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Hi Jetranger - have answered your post in an email to you with my phone number if you wish to discuss further.

Summary - mine stopped and hummed - was due to the bearing moubnt collapse as described above.

Ken

Will try and update with other info when time permits. Message me for specific info - I feel I know these quite intimately now - more's the pity.


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