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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 4:48 pm 
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Hi all.

Possibly a dumb question, but i'm trying to make sure all air is out of the 105e after several new parts fitted. I noticed that at the top of the hot water pipe/manifold there is a nut - please see pic. Is that just a blanking nut or is it a way to release trapped air at that point ?

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:02 pm 
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leave well alone, it will self bleed by running the heating up to temp if its on the CH side



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:21 pm 
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No that is not for undoing.

Make sure the auto air vent above the pump is open and all air will eventually be expelled through that and/or pushed into your highest radiators.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:00 am 
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Thanks for those comments - will leave well alone.

Only problem left after what i optimistically call the 'upgrade' -

When i switch the CH on first thing, it runs the pump fine and fan is on etc - but i get the dreaded 'Fault on pump or Low Pressure' error...BUT if i switch it off and immediately back on, it fires up and heats up really well. Watching the pump-proving pin on the diverter, it does lift up the first time and looks normal, but i'm wondering if it falls short of the full lift by a tiny amount - less than a millimeter - and then the second time it goes the whole way and activates the micro-switch. After it does fire up it runs fine any time i test it throughout the day. It 'goes wrong' overnight. I should mention that the diverter unit has been completely re-built with all new parts right down to the smallest O-ring and of course new diaphragms. The pressure in the system is set at 1.5 bar and there are no leaks anywhere. The failure at first testing can also be overcome by turning on the hot tap a few meters from the boiler, which produces immediate hot water, and that somehow gets rid of the CH fault - a bit baffled. Overall many parts have been changed in the boiler so it is not an old banger - plate heat exchanger / main heat exchanger / expansion vessel (external fitting) / auto air-vent (left half-open) / pressure relief valve, and new O-rings or washers have been fitted whenever any component had to be moved, such as the bypass pipe. Any ideas gratefully received.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:52 am 
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its a common fault on the 105e the diaphragms on the diverter valve start to fail, also over time the pins that push the micro switches (one on the front and on at the rear) get worn and either get stuck or take time to pop out, if the switches are out of sync it will throw a fault

only use the baxi rebuild kits or replace the whole thing


iKN.



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:48 pm 
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Bob225 wrote:
its a common fault on the 105e the diaphragms on the diverter valve start to fail, also over time the pins that push the micro switches (one on the front and on at the rear) get worn and either get stuck or take time to pop out, if the switches are out of sync it will throw a fault

only use the baxi rebuild kits or replace the whole thing


iKN.

Thanks for that. Only the back (CH) switch is playing up a bit so there isn't an issue about the two switches being out of sync. As i said in the post, both diaphragms, all push-rods and pins, and all O-rings/washers were replaced in the diverter valve - but i take the point about them being from a copy kit not true Baxi ! I remember reading a while back that Baxi don't actually do a whole kit for it as they'd rather sell the whole new diverter, which could be from a profit point of view or because diverter re-builds often fail, i don't know. The pins on the diverter are absolutely clean and silicone-greased so i'm a bit p-d off that there's any problem at all, albeit a minor one. The annoying thing is that the boiler was working fine through the winter with the most disgusting blocked-up diverter, and the only reason i broke into it is that we couldn't have hot water for a bath without the rads warming up so i knew the diverter internals were jammed and the hot water was passing into the CH. When i got them out, the internal pins with the rubber seals were absolutely immovable. Ah well, after a week to let some de-scaling cleaner go to work i will drain down again and have a look inside the CH part of the diverter. Many thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:21 pm 
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we have the same boiler I second making sure the small bleed screw (about 5mm approx in black) is undone to bleed, then tighten gently. Ours used to produce the same issue as yours if there was too much trapped air in the system. We also have the issue with having a shower / bath and heating on not working!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 6:14 pm 
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No heating should be on when using any hot outlet.

I only ever fit complete new diverter valves, false economy to refurbish the old one imo.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:22 pm 
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gas4you wrote:
No heating should be on when using any hot outlet.

I only ever fit complete new diverter valves, false economy to refurbish the old one imo.


Thanks Dave - very wise words as it turned out >>>

I have it working A1 right now (fingers crossed) and the final fix seems stupidly simple. It has taught me about the gamble of using kits of parts made god-knows-where by god-knows-who. I've bought a lot of parts via ebay etc and had to return quite a few for poor quality or ask for missing bits to be sent. With this renovation i had to have a full kit of all the bits for the diverter valve. I have dismantled it a couple of times so i'm really familiar with it, so i was confident about it when i re-fitted it re-built. But as my post says, it did not work A1 although it would fire up after 2 or 3 attempts. Anyway, i re-opened the CH diaphragm chamber as that's where the pin was lifting by about 75% of what it should do. Could not see anything dramatically wrong but when i got the new diaphragm out and compared it to the old one, it felt a lot thicker and stiffer. I've tried to show in a couple of pics, but it's the way it feels that really matters - i put another new (but thinner) diaphragm in, and the boiler immediately fired up first time with the pin showing full travel up to the microswitch. I've tested it 3 days in a row and both CH and hot water are great.

No wonder pros refuse to re-build diverters and insist on a proper Baxi replacement !

In the pics the problem diaphragm is the thicker one (on the left) with the obvious ridge all around - when pressed in the middle it has very little 'give' so it was restricting the upward movement of the pin towards the microswitch. That's my theory anyway ! Hope this helps anyone with the same problem - beware the knock-offs on ebay etc ;-)

Thanks all.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:53 pm 
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You have certainly proved to me that my ‘never buy off eBay’ is the way to go.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:39 am 
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I'm no pro but brother is a RGI and we have a 105E, iirc there was a batch of Baxi diaphragms that where out of spec they may be still be around



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