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 Post subject: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:15 pm 
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Hi I am about to undertake my first plumbing job. I will be refitting our bathroom, with the sink and toilet moving positions.

My main question is regarding the shower I would like to fit an aqualisa quartz digital conceled shower with an integral pump(qz.a2.bv.05), But currently we have fitted a newteam 550 shower pump which is quite noisy.
This pump is tapped off the top of the hot water tank and then feed into a built-in wardrobe in the main bedroom, the pipes then go to the shower via the loft.
If I remove the pump and pipe work, will it be ok to use the 22mm hot feed to the bath, for the shower and will I get a simalar pressure.

I have attached some pics to help.

Thanks in advance.
Jon


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tank.png
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pump.png
pump.png [ 770.19 KiB | Viewed 1080 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:53 am 
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Jon, so that experts get the message clearly:-
a)Are you intending to use the original bath 22mm house supply which feeds under the floors?
b)Confirm you are not going to use the existing shower supply pipework which goes via the attic?
Note: the house 22m hot will not be a dedicated source for the new shower, so it will get effected by other users and by the distance from the tank (lower level faucets will get priority flow if used at same time).
c)What is the height (head) of the attic cold storage above the top of the hot cylinder?
d)What distance will the aqualisa processor be from the hot water cylinder and at what level?
You can see by size and power rating the 550 is more powerful than the aqualisa processor pump, though it is very popular and should give an adequate shower. Mc.


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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:48 pm 
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Thanks for the reply aeromech3.
A)I was planning on using the 22mm feed to the bath taps, I had not thought about the implications of other taps being used.
Would I be better using the existing pumps feed which it tapped off the hot cylinder.(see attachment)

B)I will not be using the existing pipework from the old shower pump, I will be running a new hot feed and using the baths cold feed as this will be redundant, as I intend on using the shower/bath diverter valve.

C)The distance between the top of the hot tank and cold tank is 2 meters.

D)The processor for the shower will be about 1.5m away from the hot tank, and about 10cm below the base of the tank.

Today I carried out a flow test on the existing shower and it was pushing out 12L per min.
The tech specs on the aqualisa are:-
Normal at 1 metre head 13 ltr/min
Boost at 1 metre head 18 ltr/min
So hopefully I have answered me own question.
If I have missed something please let me know.
Thanks
Jon


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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:51 pm 
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Forgot the attachment so here it is.


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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:58 pm 
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You can't use the feed to the bath!

If you did the pump would be starved everytime someone ran a hot tap and their is a good chance that air will be drawn in and quickly destroy the pump :sad:

Use the feed to the existing pump, it's not just tapped in it's in a special flange which is designed to take air from the non aerated part of the cylinder. But before you do get rid of the ballofix valve that's on it at the moment if you look the internal bore is tiny. Fit a full bore lever valve :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:22 pm 
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Thanks for the quick reply razor.
I got some isolator valves today from screw fix didnt even think to check if they were full bore.As it turns out they are not!I will swap them on monday and get an extra one to replace the existing one.
I dont really understand why all valves aren`t full bore,could someone enlighten me?

Thanks
Jon


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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:54 pm 
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It can only be because it's cheaper to make crappy ones :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Bathroom plumbing
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:48 am 
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Jon also note full bore tend to be bulkier and in parallel pipework might not fit. If you can fit the lever type much easier to operate but if space is an issue, the bulldog ones look good but unless you leave an allen key handy, can be difficult to operate in an emergency by small hands but S. fix are only showing 15mm size now! The screwdriver operated ones are neat and cheaper but there is no internal stop, so finding the full close in a hurry can be hit and miss.


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