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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 6:36 pm 
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Ive recently bought my first house. I was going to keep the bathroom as it was. It has a dropped PVC cladded ceiling.

I realised when i bought the house and stood in the bath that my head was literally 100mm off the pvc ceiling. The shower currently doesnt have a head fixture just a wall fixture. Im 6,3 by the way. My head is also way above the side shower door so water is going to go everywhere.

So after much thought i think ill have to take the bathroom out and start again but ive come into a bit of a stumbling block.

I inspected above the cladding through one of the droplight holes. My idea was just to board it and have it replastered . It looks very suspect tho. Is it artex? What are my options? Looks like theres all sorts of bodged jobs which the cladding is hiding.

I dont want this to turn massively expensive as dont have the funds Would it be better to live with the siuation?


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Thanks shaun


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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 6:42 pm 
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Not a plumbing question. I'll move it to general DIY in a mo.


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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 10:22 pm 
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They are 'expanded polystyrene' tiles so are safe to remove.

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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 8:36 am 
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here we go again! whats happened to my post on here from last night. it was actually my second attempt to post an answer, the first attempt also disapeared?

another of my posts was removed last week - by who, why?


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 8:47 am 
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OP, what youve got, from what i can see, is polystyrene tiles and plasterboard.
the dropped ceiling is probly on a metal frame which, given the location, and the sketchy elec arrangements is very bad news.
bathrooms have special elec Regs and you should, no matter what, get your bathroom electrics up to Regs soonest.
pulling down the dropped ceiling and the old p/board ceiling are straight forward an if the joists are secure and sound then going back with board and a skim is easy done. just wear a mask.

could you post a photo of your shower valve and shower head?


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 2:45 pm 
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thanks for the reply Wes. Heres a couple more pics.

It looks like the previous owner has done damage to the ceiling underneath. Will this be when he tried to take off the tiles and ended up ripping the ceiling down? Do they come off easily ?

The second picture shows the chimeny going up through the house and bathroom.

Ive checked in loft and theres seems to be joists everywhere at 400mm centeres but non infront of chimney bit as shown with red line. Black lines are existing joists.

How can i get a noggin in there or something to support the plasterboard at that corner.

thanks Shaun

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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 11:44 pm 
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polystyrene tiles usuly just come away easy using say a Stanley scraper knife.
we never install polystyrene anything and remove it when we find it

i suppose your bar shower is pumped? and given the existing elec installations low standard, thencheck the elec supply and connections ,esp the Earthing, for the pump.
the shower head is too near the down light so as above the dropped ceiling has to go.
If you isolate the elec's and pull the dropped ceiling down an then post photos it will help but i think it should be straightforward.
yes, you can pin up a ledger to the chimney breast cheek and then noggin across to give backing for the p/board.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 10:06 am 
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Hi Wes.

Im getting my stuff together to have a bash at this this weekend.

If im putting in new downlights Do I cut the holes when the new plasterboard is up or mark out before I put the plaster board up?

If so how far away would you put downlight from shower.

thanks shaun


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 5:22 pm 
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ive just told you that youve got to work to special zone elec regs.
why not ask more on the elec forum?


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 6:08 pm 
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Bathrooms do need special consideration.

Zones

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Zone 1
Requires a minimum of IPX4. This is the area directly above a bath and within a shower cubicle.
Zone 2
Same as above, requires a minimum of IPX4. This is the area outside of the shower zone.

I've copied and pasted the next bit, coz I have to get on with dinner in a bit... and my 3 finger typing isn't that quick...


IP Ratings Explained
An IP rating is a number that is given to specify the level of ingress protection of an enclosure or piece of electronic equipment. These ratings are determined by specific tests carried out by the manufacturer of the product or in an approved test laboratory.
The IP number is composed of two digits, the first referring to the level of protection against solid objects such as dust and the second against liquids such as water. The higher the number the better the protection level will be. Here are the main ones featured on this website:
IP20, touch proof.
The 2 stands for protection against solids up 12mm square.
The 0 stands for no resistance to water.
IP44, limited water resistance.
The first 4 stands for protection against solids up to 1mm square.
The second 4 stands for protection against water sprayed from all directions. IE resistant to splashes of water.
IP65, water resistant.
The 6 stands for total protection against dust.
The 5 stands for protection against low pressure jets of water. IE a pressure washer.

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 2:07 pm 
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I have an understanding of the IP ratings just wondered if there was a dimensional distance ie spotlight needs to be 200 mm Minimum away from shower in any direction.

So basically I could put an ip65 light anywhere.

An electrician will be doing the electrics. More wondering about where to place the holes for the new plaster board.

thanks Wes and Wine for your help

shaun


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 2:38 pm 
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The way I read wine~o's diagram the spotlight if it is for zone 2 has to be 60cm or 75cm away from the shower head (600 or 750mm). Put differently, you cannot have a mains light above the shower ... and that is from memory.

Also consider steam escaping upwards via the lights instead of through the fan or window etc.

PS. I claim no expertise so whatever I have written you must double check.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 5:04 pm 
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Well finally got round to pulling the ceiling and stipping the polysterene tiles. Glad i got a dust mask was messy.

I isolated electrics while doing work and now the celing rose bit is capped off. As you pointed out god knows what the previous ownder did all the electrics were joined by tape .

One picture shows a patch that is damaged will this affect boarding over.

I am going to strip the rest of the bathroom. is there any point taking tile by tile to try and retain the plasterboard on the walls or ? just take all the boards off. It looks very uneven as the wall boards meet the ceiling anyway.

thanks shaun


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