|
Page 1 of 1
|
[ 6 posts ] |
|
| Author |
Message |
|
richard k
|
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 6:48 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:50 pm Posts: 13 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
hi there,
I am planning to put up framed insulation on existing basement walls as follows:
oldroyd damp membrane
studwork with insulation between battens
plasterboard
plaster skim
the question is how deep should the battens be and how deep should the insulation be? Also what type of insulation is best for this application?
Any ideas appreciated.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
royaloakcarpentry
|
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:08 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:48 pm Posts: 4152 Location: Essex Has thanked: 2 times Been thanked: 327 times
|
|
Don't use battens....Gypline it. A lot quicker and a lot easier to do.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
richard k
|
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:30 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:50 pm Posts: 13 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
I'll check out the gypliner system, can you add insulation behind it?
I have access to discounted timber, so battens seem a good bet for the moment.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
jozeffo
|
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:31 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:52 pm Posts: 2448 Location: South London Has thanked: 58 times Been thanked: 272 times
|
|
Do not gypline it but build a 70mm stud wall using gypframe (or richter which is cheaper) against the existing wall and secure it to floor and ceiling being careful not to pierce the damp proofing in the floor or wall and gap filling foam half way between the two. then fit 50mm kingspan or celotex between the studs and plasterboard over the top.
Alternatively bond insulating plasterboard to the wall using bonding compound and skim.
Try british gypsum's website and look at minsters or sheffins who actually supply these products direct.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
royaloakcarpentry
|
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:37 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:48 pm Posts: 4152 Location: Essex Has thanked: 2 times Been thanked: 327 times
|
|
Gypliner needs to have brackets securing it to wall which takes the flex out of it. As you were screwing batten to walls this is why it was suggested.
As Jozeffo has pointed out best way to do it without actually having to put a fixing through the membrane is to use stud and track.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
richard k
|
Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:16 am |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:50 pm Posts: 13 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Thanks for the advice.
I am considering using resilient bars to aid soundproofing on this wall.
As these decouple the boarding so that it can flex I am wondering whether it would cause cracks in the skim coat where the wall joins the ceiling?
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
Page 1 of 1
|
[ 6 posts ] |
|