I own a reasonably sized terraced house and I'm been given some good advice , but I want some more info on the products/methods to use for putting it into the front wall...

Again I've got a few ideas already, but just wondering where to get the "bits and pieces" from really...
Or what products are best to buy...

The existing front wall is rendered, which is all being redone as it's cracked badly and bridged the bitumen seal at the bottom.
As you can imagine that's meant the damp has risen all the way up the render like a wick, and internally it's half the way up the wall and right through...

I've had a few dehumidifiers running slightly above normal and they're doing a cracking job, it's pretty dry inside.
I cut off the render by two courses too to stop it wicking so to speak...


I'm planning to redo the damp course that doesn't ever appear to have been done since the property was built ~1870.
As a starting measure I'm having the render stripped, then I'm planning to do a damp course over 3 courses of bricks...

Hi Omniata,
Just to add this is a double thickness single skin wall, no cavity.

I've had a look see and suggested to Omniata to use the 'mayonnaise' cream injection.

Drilling from outside to a depth of 4" (100mm) 12mm drill bit on the mortar line, centre of brick and at each Perp (vertical mortar line).

So you would have, 1 hole at Perp, 1 hole around 4" along line (centre of brick on the line but not the brick) then 1 hole on the Perp.

He's suggesting doing 3 course I haven't an issue.

I'm suggesting then doing the same on the inside and added that each internal corner should rise up 1 meter drilling on each course line.

Here's the mayo I was talking about.

http://www.dampness-info.co.uk/damp%20shop.htm#Damp3000

_________________
Jaeger.
Senior Member doesn't mean I'm OLD!

darrenc wrote:

I dont think its a stupid question but does show a lack of understanding of how paint works and reasons for certain applications, now dont jump down my throat Jaegar i'm not being funny its just a classic case in point of a well educated professionally trained painter against a general tradesman.

Cheers Jaeger!!!

Just saw the prices too

I don't think one pot would be quite enough to do 3 courses and inside as well so may save up and get the four...
I can do ma and pa's at the same time then...


I noticed they do the "mortar plugs", would you recommend knocking them in after?
Or maybe do an extra dose on the bottom row and inject mortar with a damp proofing agent/water proofer mixed in?

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Ex Ovo Omnia

The mortar is an idea, not sure how it would react with the cream, maybe worth trying a bit see how it sets and decide then.

Haven't tried it. but if you use just mortar, you can always paint a bit on the plug and it will wick through it.

_________________
Jaeger.
Senior Member doesn't mean I'm OLD!

darrenc wrote:

I dont think its a stupid question but does show a lack of understanding of how paint works and reasons for certain applications, now dont jump down my throat Jaegar i'm not being funny its just a classic case in point of a well educated professionally trained painter against a general tradesman.

I was thinking of the cream soaking in so much that it left an empty hole to fill

Or does it not soak in that fast?

I'm planning to do it a bit later in the year when the weathers warmer and drier to give the wall the best chance of drying out...

To be honest looking at it closely I don't think it's ever been done since it's been built

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Ex Ovo Omnia

Then fill it with mortar the same day and it'll soak up the gloop the cavity isn't important.

_________________
Jaeger.
Senior Member doesn't mean I'm OLD!

darrenc wrote:

I dont think its a stupid question but does show a lack of understanding of how paint works and reasons for certain applications, now dont jump down my throat Jaegar i'm not being funny its just a classic case in point of a well educated professionally trained painter against a general tradesman.

Okeydokey!!

Cheers!!


Will keep the thread updated with progress

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Ex Ovo Omnia

When your home was built, they would have used a soft lime mortar.
This enables the bricks to move over the year, expanding and contracting as the year moves from summer to winter.
The render has cracked because it was made with cement.
Cement render is hard and it did not move with the walls, so it cracked.
If you decide to re render, you must use a lime based render, to have the same amount of movement.
Not many people use lime, or know how to use it. Do check out whoever you use, ask them about lime render, read it up on the web, become an expert.
If the new render is cement based it will crack again.

The wall is wet because of trapped rain.

The dpc may well be perfect.

The bricks do appear to have been coated with something...
It's extremely hard and almost impossible to remove without chipping the bricks, it's greenish white translucent and almost like hard plastic...

In places the render's stuck fast, in so much that it's almost as impossible to remove as the coating...
It does look cement based though

I've spoken with a professional plasterer I know and regularly meet up with, he's said the only real option is a lime based render so I'm off to a good start

The mortar gaps are really thin, ie: less than 10mm, and no two bricks are really the same...
Oh what fun...


Again there's no evidence of DPC but the render was finished to floor level so as said has ultimately acted like a giant candle wick...

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Ex Ovo Omnia