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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 7:28 pm 
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ok im starting a kitchen fit in the morning. its a benchmarx true handleless kitchen. it has aluminium profiles that fit into routed out notches on the fronts of the units to raise the worktops up and provide room to get your fingers in to open the doors.

the profiles come in long lengths that have to be cut down.

my mitre saw is a festool kapex. it has the standard 60t blade.

do i need to buy a specialist aluminium cutting blade for this job? or will the standard blade do the job? ive never had to cut ali before.

i actually need a new blade anyway as the one on there already is just aboot paggered like. so needs to get re sharpened. so if i got an ali blade would it be good for cutting pelmets, cornice etc and stuff like architraves whilst i wait for the other blade to come back to me?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 7:38 pm 
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60tooth good quality blade will be fine mate :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 8:31 pm 
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so basicaly what i already have but sharpened up then

cheers stevie


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:18 am 
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I've found that a triple chip grind with a negative rake works best on ally, but as Stevie says if you only have the standard Festool blade go with that but feed-in very slowly and you should be OK

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:29 am 
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You will probably want a very fine cut file to taking off any burrs too.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 7:51 pm 
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Rorschach wrote:
You will probably want a very fine cut file to taking off any burrs too.

Oddly enough whilst I often carry a single cut file and handle in the kit I sometimes resort to using one of my diamond hones (used to touch-up chisels, etc) for the same task if the file isn't in the kit

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 8:23 pm 
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ive only got a bog standard file that i got when i was a youngun. its canny big like. if there is any seen edges then i will go buy a diamond hone or a smaller fine cut file


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 8:47 pm 
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Id buy a nice shiny new blade for your joinery needs, and use the tired one you already have on the ally.

As above though bring it into the ally real slow, and make sure its sat in the saw in a way it wont flip over if you do push it too hard.
Cut a fair bit of ally with mine, using a cheapy trent 60t blade. It cut timber after, but noticeably dull.

Googles/glasses are a good idea, if you dont already wear them.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:38 pm 
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Hitch wrote:
Id buy a nice shiny new blade for your joinery needs, and use the tired one you already have on the ally.

As above though bring it into the ally real slow, and make sure its sat in the saw in a way it wont flip over if you do push it too hard.
Cut a fair bit of ally with mine, using a cheapy trent 60t blade. It cut timber after, but noticeably dull.

Googles/glasses are a good idea, if you dont already wear them.


Aluminium is way too soft to do any damage to carbide, but it is very good at chip welding to the edge. Check the teeth for this, your blade might still be sharp.


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