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drilling and machining acrylic |
Drilling Acrylic
Acrylic such as Perspex or Plexiglas can easily be drilled and machined with the correct tools. When drilling acrylic a drill bit with a negative rake works well, for this reason a cobalt drill often works well as the cut angle is is better suited to drilling acrylic.
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Standard drill (130°) with cutting edges re-ground for use with Perspex®
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When drilling acrylic a slow speed is recommended, if you use a high speed there is a chance that too much heat will be produced via friction and this can cause the acrylic to melt or be damaged by the heat. A back stop should also be used to prevent break out, this can be made from a scrap piece of acrylic or a hard piece of wood. Coolants are recommended when drilling deep holes into acrylic. Never use a centre punch on acrylic as it will break. If you need to get a larder diameter drill started you can use a smaller drill to use a pilot hole or you can use a centre drill. Hole saws can be used on acrylic, but pay particular attention to the drill in the arbour as this can break the acrylic when exiting the work piece. |
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Using a bench drill is a good way to drill perspex, this way you can ensure that the hole is perfectly straight. |
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Be sure to stop the drill occasionally to remove the build up of swarf. |
Acrylic can be turned, engraved and machined with a router as long as the correct speed is chosen. Coolants are recommended when Turning, please check the Perspex workshop manual below for more details-
| Perspex® PDF Downloads | |
Download the complete Perspex workshop manual 5th edition Perspex® Fluorescent colour chart
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| Acrylic sheet |
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